
Chef Isabel
Bicicleta Murciana (Ensaladilla sobre Rosquilla)
The Murcian bicicleta is the anchovy-free cousin of the marinera: ensaladilla rusa mounded on a crisp rosquilla de pan. Keep the salad cold and the bread dry until the last minute.
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Marinero Murciano is the bar counter's sharper cousin to the marinera: cold ensaladilla on a crisp rosquilla, finished with boquerón en vinagre instead of salted anchoa, and eaten before the bread softens.
Marinero Murciano is Murcia's own bar-counter bite: a crisp rosquilla de pan carrying cold ensaladilla and a boquerón en vinagre, the white anchovy cured in vinegar, laid across the top. Its neighbour is the marinera, which uses salted anchoa. Change the fish and the bite changes. This one is lighter, sharper, and cleaner at the end.
The method that decides it is not clever. Keep the ensaladilla cold, thick, and well drained, then build the marinero at the last moment. Warm potato and loose mayonnaise soak the bread ring, and then you have a tired little raft instead of the clean crunch Murcia expects. Boil the potatoes in their skins, let them dry, fold the mayonnaise in only when cool, and chill the salad until it holds its shape.
No hace falta haber pisado España. If you cannot find a Murcian rosquilla, use a firm rosquilleta, picos camperos, or a narrow piece of toasted barra, and know what changes: the flavour comes close, but the ring and its snap are not quite the same. Buy boquerones en vinagre already prepared if you can; they should be bright, sharp, and clean, not woolly or harsh.
In my Margin for this one I keep three words: dry salad, dry fish, dry bread. Pésalo, no lo adivines. About 70g of ensaladilla per rosquilla is enough, because the boquerón must sit on top, not disappear into a hill of potato.
Murcia's marinero belongs to the city's aperitivo bars and to the huerta, the market-garden plain that made potato salad, pickles, olives, preserved fish, and crisp bread a practical counter food. The local naming is precise: bicicleta is the rosquilla with ensaladilla alone, marinera adds a salted anchoa, and marinero uses boquerón en vinagre. The ring-shaped rosquilla matters because it made the salad hand-held, a small piece to eat standing up before lunch without needing a plate and fork.
Quantity
600g
scrubbed, skins left on
Quantity
160g
peeled
Quantity
2
Quantity
10g
divided, plus more to taste
Quantity
120g drained weight
flaked, oil reserved
Quantity
60g
drained, squeezed dry, and finely chopped
Quantity
50g
pitted and chopped
Quantity
40g, plus 8 narrow strips to finish
drained and chopped
Quantity
120g, plus up to 20g if needed
Quantity
15ml
Quantity
8
Quantity
8
drained and patted dry
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| waxy potatoesscrubbed, skins left on | 600g |
| carrotspeeled | 160g |
| large eggs | 2 |
| fine saltdivided, plus more to taste | 10g |
| canned tuna in olive oilflaked, oil reserved | 120g drained weight |
| variantes encurtidos or chopped pickled vegetablesdrained, squeezed dry, and finely chopped | 60g |
| manzanilla olivespitted and chopped | 50g |
| roasted red pepper strips (optional)drained and chopped | 40g, plus 8 narrow strips to finish |
| good jarred mayonnaise | 120g, plus up to 20g if needed |
| extra virgin olive oil or reserved tuna oil | 15ml |
| Murcian rosquillas de pan or firm crisp bread rings | 8 |
| boquerones en vinagre filletsdrained and patted dry | 8 |
Put the whole potatoes and peeled carrots in a saucepan and cover with cold water by 3cm. Add 8g of the salt, bring to a steady simmer, and cook until the carrots are tender, about 15 to 18 minutes, and the potatoes take a skewer without resistance, about 25 to 30 minutes. Lift each piece out as it is ready and let everything dry on a tray. Boiling the potatoes in their skins keeps them from drinking water, and a wet ensaladilla is the enemy here.
Lower the eggs into a small pan of simmering water and cook for 10 minutes. Cool them in cold water, peel, and chop them small. Keep the pieces plain and neat; the salad wants texture, not a paste.
Peel the cooled potatoes. Cut half into 1cm pieces and crush the rest roughly with a fork, so the crushed potato catches the mayonnaise and the diced potato gives the bite. Dice the carrots small. Put the potatoes and carrots in a bowl with the tuna, chopped egg, variantes, olives, roasted pepper if using, 15ml oil, and the remaining 2g salt.
Fold in 120g mayonnaise once the potato mixture is fully cool. Add up to 20g more only if it looks dry; it should hold a mound on a spoon and not slump. Cover and chill for at least 1 hour. This is the method that decides the marinero: cold, thick ensaladilla on dry bread, assembled at the last moment.
Drain the boquerones en vinagre and pat them dry with kitchen paper so their vinegar does not run into the salad. Keep the rosquillas uncovered and crisp until the last minute. If you use salted anchoa instead, you have made a marinera, not a marinero. Good dish. Different name.
Spoon about 70g ensaladilla onto each rosquilla, mounding it along the top without crushing the bread. Lay one boquerón en vinagre over each mound, glossy side up, and add a narrow strip of roasted pepper if you like. Serve at once, while the rosquilla still breaks cleanly under your teeth. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
1 serving (about 155g)
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