Marinera Murciana

Marinera Murciana belongs to Murcia, and it is exact in its smallness: a crisp rosquilla, a mound of cold ensaladilla rusa, and one salted anchovy laid across the top. Change the fish and it changes name. Leave the fish off and it is another thing again. Murcia is particular about this, and rightly so.

The method that decides it is not difficult. The ensaladilla must be cold, creamy, and well drained, and the marinera must be assembled at the last minute. If you pile wet potato salad onto the rosquilla too early, the bread softens and the whole pleasure is gone. Crunch underneath, cream in the middle, salt on top. That is the bite.

If you are far from Murcia, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use a dry, crisp breadstick ring if you can find one, or a sturdy Italian-style tarallo at a pinch; it will be a little denser, but it gives the same job of crunch and support. For the fish, use good salt-cured anchovy fillets in olive oil, not a vinegar boquerón. Pésalo, no lo adivines, and chill the salad well. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.