
Chef Isabel
Bicicleta Murciana (Ensaladilla sobre Rosquilla)
The Murcian bicicleta is the anchovy-free cousin of the marinera: ensaladilla rusa mounded on a crisp rosquilla de pan. Keep the salad cold and the bread dry until the last minute.
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Marinera Murciana is Murcia on a bread ring: cold ensaladilla rusa piled onto a crisp rosquilla and crowned with one salted anchovy. Build it just before eating.
Marinera Murciana belongs to Murcia, and it is exact in its smallness: a crisp rosquilla, a mound of cold ensaladilla rusa, and one salted anchovy laid across the top. Change the fish and it changes name. Leave the fish off and it is another thing again. Murcia is particular about this, and rightly so.
The method that decides it is not difficult. The ensaladilla must be cold, creamy, and well drained, and the marinera must be assembled at the last minute. If you pile wet potato salad onto the rosquilla too early, the bread softens and the whole pleasure is gone. Crunch underneath, cream in the middle, salt on top. That is the bite.
If you are far from Murcia, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use a dry, crisp breadstick ring if you can find one, or a sturdy Italian-style tarallo at a pinch; it will be a little denser, but it gives the same job of crunch and support. For the fish, use good salt-cured anchovy fillets in olive oil, not a vinegar boquerón. Pésalo, no lo adivines, and chill the salad well. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
The marinera is one of Murcia's emblematic bar-counter bites, built from ensaladilla rusa set onto a hard rosquilla and finished with a salted anchovy. Its small family of names is part of the local grammar: marinera with anchovy, marinero with boquerón en vinagre, and bicicleta with no fish. The form suits Murcia's aperitivo habit because the bread stays in the hand and the salted fish sharpens the mild potato salad in one bite.
Quantity
600g
peeled and cut into 2cm chunks
Quantity
120g
peeled and diced small
Quantity
2
Quantity
120g
drained and flaked
Quantity
80g
finely chopped
Quantity
60g
finely chopped and well drained
Quantity
150g, plus 1 tablespoon if needed
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
12
Quantity
12
drained
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| waxy potatoespeeled and cut into 2cm chunks | 600g |
| carrotpeeled and diced small | 120g |
| large eggs | 2 |
| tuna in olive oildrained and flaked | 120g |
| pitted green olivesfinely chopped | 80g |
| pickled cucumber or variantesfinely chopped and well drained | 60g |
| mayonnaise | 150g, plus 1 tablespoon if needed |
| pickle brine or mild white wine vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| fine salt | to taste |
| crisp rosquillas murcianas or dry breadstick rings | 12 |
| salt-cured anchovy fillets in olive oildrained | 12 |
Put the potatoes and carrot in a pan of cold salted water. Bring to a gentle boil and cook until the potato gives easily to a knife, about 12 to 15 minutes. Do not cook it to mush; the salad wants small tender pieces, not paste.
At the same time, lower the eggs into a small pan of simmering water and cook for 10 minutes. Cool under cold water, peel, and chop finely. Keep one spoonful of chopped egg aside if you want a little over the top before the anchovy.
Drain the potatoes and carrot very well, then spread them on a tray for 10 minutes so the surface moisture leaves. This is the step that keeps the ensaladilla creamy instead of wet. A watery salad ruins the rosquilla before you even sit down.
Put the potatoes and carrot in a bowl and break up only the largest potato pieces with a fork. Fold in the tuna, chopped egg, olives, and drained pickles. Add the mayonnaise and pickle brine, then mix gently until the salad holds together. Taste before salting, because the anchovy will bring plenty of salt later.
Cover the ensaladilla and chill it for at least 1 hour. Cold firms it up, settles the tuna and pickle through the potato, and makes it easy to mound cleanly on the rosquilla.
Just before serving, set the rosquillas on a platter. Spoon about 45g ensaladilla onto each one, pressing lightly so it sits in a neat mound but does not crack the bread. Lay one anchovy fillet across the top of each. Serve at once, while the ring still snaps under your teeth.
1 serving (about 120g)
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Chef Isabel
The Murcian bicicleta is the anchovy-free cousin of the marinera: ensaladilla rusa mounded on a crisp rosquilla de pan. Keep the salad cold and the bread dry until the last minute.

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