
Chef Makoa
Eke Takare (Cook Islands Curried Octopus)
Rarotonga's reef catch brought home to the pot: tender eke simmered with onion, garlic, turmeric, curry powder, and coconut cream until the sauce turns gold and rich.
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Night-caught Cook Islands maroro, the flying fish of the lagoon, grilled quick over fire until the skin crisps at the edges and the flesh stays sweet.
The ocean feeds you different when you meet it at night. In the Cook Islands, maroro, the flying fish, is more than a cheap supper. It is kai, food, pulled from the dark water under bright lights while the fish skim and lift over the lagoon like they don't quite belong to sea or sky.
This is the Cooks' hand, not mine, and I cook it open-handed. My own home seat is Hawaiʻi, where we'd talk story over akule or ʻopelu on the grill, but the lesson is the same across the Triangle: respect the fish, keep it fresh, cook it clean. Same ocean, different net. Same fire, different shore.
You don't bury maroro under heavy sauce. Score it, salt it, rub it with lime and a little coconut oil, then put it over a hot grate until the skin tightens and the edges go crisp. Eat what you have. If your market has sardines, small mackerel, or butterflied snapper instead, cook those with the same care and no shame.
Set it down with taro, ʻuru, or plain rice, some rukau, the Cook Islands taro leaves cooked with coconut cream, and lime for the table. Weeknight food can still carry old knowledge. ʻĀina, kānaka, meaʻai, land, people, food. The cousins keep it too.
Maroro is one of the iconic fish of the Cook Islands, especially around Rarotonga and Aitutaki, where night fishing with bright lamps draws flying fish close enough to net or scoop as they skim the lagoon surface. The dish sits with the everyday side of Cook Islands kai, not chiefly ceremony, and shows how the old ocean skill still lives beside modern grills, markets, and takeaway counters. Across Polynesia, small reef and pelagic fish are cooked simply over flame from Hawaiʻi to Tahiti to the Cooks, each island naming its own catch and keeping its own hand.
Quantity
4
scaled and gutted, about 8 to 10 ounces each
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
plus more to finish
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2
juiced, plus wedges for serving
Quantity
2 cloves
finely grated
Quantity
1 small
finely chopped
Quantity
2
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 piece
for lining the platter
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole maroro (flying fish)scaled and gutted, about 8 to 10 ounces each | 4 |
| sea saltplus more to finish | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| coconut oil | 2 tablespoons |
| limesjuiced, plus wedges for serving | 2 |
| garlicfinely grated | 2 cloves |
| fresh chile (optional)finely chopped | 1 small |
| green onionsthinly sliced | 2 |
| banana leaf (optional)for lining the platter | 1 piece |
Pat the maroro very dry inside and out. Fresh fish should smell like clean ocean and almost nothing else. If it smells tired, no make it the star of the grill. Cook another fish, make soup, no waste, but don't pretend.
Cut three shallow slashes into each side of every fish, just deep enough for the salt and lime to get in. Rub with sea salt, coconut oil, lime juice, garlic, and chile if you're using it. Let it sit 10 minutes while the grill heats, not much longer, so the lime doesn't make the flesh chalky.
Heat a clean grill to medium-high and oil the grate well. You want a quick, confident fire, not a slow punishment. The fish should hiss when it lands and release when the skin has tightened.
Lay the fish on the grate and cook 3 to 4 minutes per side, turning once, until the skin is browned at the edges, the fins are crisp, and the flesh flakes clean at the thickest part. Don't keep moving it. Let the fire do its work.
Move the maroro to a banana-leaf-lined platter, scatter over green onion, and squeeze fresh lime across the top while the surface is still glossy. Serve right away with taro, breadfruit, rice, or rukau. This is everyday Cook Islands kai, enough for the table, easy in the hand.
1 serving (about 145g)
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