
Chef Makoa
Eke Takare (Cook Islands Curried Octopus)
Rarotonga's reef catch brought home to the pot: tender eke simmered with onion, garlic, turmeric, curry powder, and coconut cream until the sauce turns gold and rich.
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A Cook Islands reef delicacy gathered at low tide, cleaned with patience, then cooked down with onion, garlic, and butter until the sea cucumber turns glossy, tender, and brave on the tongue.
The reef feeds you only if you learn how to listen to it. In the Cook Islands, rori, the sea cucumber, belongs to the low tide and the lagoon floor, to the hands that know where to step and what to leave behind. This is the Cooks' dish, matu rori, and I cook it open-handed, because that reef knowledge belongs first to Cook Islands people, the aunties and uncles who can read a lagoon the way my kumu read the loʻi back home.
This one takes a little bravado, yeah. Not because it is fancy. Deep food is not fancy. It is direct. The rori carries the reef in its body, salty and clean when it is fresh, and when you cook it with onion, garlic, and butter, it turns soft, glossy, and almost sweet, like the ocean decided to sit down at a modern kitchen table.
Across the Triangle, the cousins know these reef foods by their own names. Tahiti has rori too, Hawaiʻi knows loli, and every island has its own laws about what can be gathered, when, and by whom. Same ocean, different shore. So before the pan gets hot, the first instruction is not garlic or butter. It is respect the rāhui, the customary restriction or closure, ask local people, and take only where taking is allowed.
Then cook it simple. Onion first until sweet, garlic only until fragrant, rori last so it doesn't toughen. Eat what you have, but don't force the reef to give what it can't spare. ʻĀina, kānaka, meaʻai, land, people, food, the cousins keep that same triad in their own tongues. The dish only tastes right when that relationship is still whole.
Sea cucumber, called rori in the Cook Islands and Tahiti and loli in Hawaiʻi, is one of the reef foods known across Polynesia, gathered from shallow lagoon and reef flats rather than grown from the canoe crops. In the Cook Islands, matu rori sits in the practical modern table as much as the older one: reef harvest, local onion or whatever the kitchen has, and butter from the colonial and store-bought pantry worked into island food without apology. Because sea cucumber has also been heavily harvested for export in parts of the Pacific since the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, local rāhui and conservation rules matter as much as the cooking.
Quantity
2 pounds
cleaned, gutted, and rinsed very well
Quantity
2 tablespoons
plus more for rinsing
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 medium
thinly sliced
Quantity
4
finely chopped
Quantity
1 small
thinly sliced
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2
thinly sliced
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh sea cucumber (rori)cleaned, gutted, and rinsed very well | 2 pounds |
| coarse sea saltplus more for rinsing | 2 tablespoons |
| unsalted butter | 3 tablespoons |
| onionthinly sliced | 1 medium |
| garlic clovesfinely chopped | 4 |
| fresh chile (optional)thinly sliced | 1 small |
| water or light fish stock | 1/2 cup |
| fresh lime juice (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
| green onionsthinly sliced | 2 |
| cooked taro, breadfruit, or rice | for serving |
Use only sea cucumber gathered legally and locally, from a place open to harvest. If there is a rāhui, a customary closure or restriction, you leave it alone. The reef is not a store shelf. It is a living relative, and the first seasoning is restraint.
Split the rori lengthwise if it has not already been cleaned, remove the inner tract, and rinse under cool running water until the water runs clear and the sea smell is clean, not sour. Rub with the coarse salt, rinse again, and repeat if it still feels slick in a dirty way. Good rori should smell like the lagoon, not rot.
Cut the cleaned rori into bite-size strips or thick half-moons. If the pieces feel very firm, simmer them in plain water for 10 to 15 minutes, then drain. You want a springy chew, not a fight with your teeth.
Melt the butter in a wide skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until it softens, shines, and starts to smell sweet, 5 to 7 minutes. Let the onion do its work slow. Burnt onion makes the whole pan bitter.
Stir in the garlic and chile if using, and cook just until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Garlic goes from sweet to sharp fast, so keep it moving. No need make drama in the pan.
Add the sliced rori and toss it through the butter, onion, and garlic until every piece is glossy. Pour in the water or light fish stock, cover, and cook 8 to 10 minutes, stirring once or twice, until the rori is tender, sea-scented, and lightly coated in a buttery sauce.
Uncover and cook another minute or two if the pan is watery, until the sauce clings with a salty sheen. Taste before adding more salt, because the rori carries the reef already. Finish with lime if you want brightness, scatter the green onion over, and serve with cooked taro, breadfruit, or rice for the whole table.
1 serving (about 320g)
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