
Chef Makoa
Butter Mochi (Hawaiʻi Local Mochiko Coconut Cake)
A chewy, golden Hawaiʻi Local square from mochiko, butter, and coconut milk, baked in one pan until the edges pull crisp and the middle stays tender.
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A tender baked Japanese pastry from Hawaiʻi's old okashi-shop counter, wrapped around sweet azuki or lima bean paste and carried home in a paper box for holidays, visits, and comfort.
The cookie tin on the Formica table is kin too, just a different kind. This is Hawaiʻi Local food, born from Japanese hands in the islands, not the deep food of the loʻi, the taro patch, and I like keeping that line clear. Hāloa is our elder brother. Manjū is the neighbor auntie's gift, the one wrapped in wax paper, brought over because somebody had a birthday, a funeral, a New Year's visit, or just because the oven was already warm.
In Hawaiʻi, the Japanese okashi shops took manjū, the old Japanese sweet, and made it part of island life. Azuki bean paste, red and earthy-sweet, is the old road. Lima bean paste, pale and smooth, is pure Hawaiʻi bakery memory for plenty families. Same table where you'll see Portuguese malasadas, Okinawan andagi, Chinese gau, Filipino hopia, and then rice, poke, plate lunch, Spam musubi, whatever the house is feeding that day. Keeper, not gatekeeper.
So don't make this precious. Make the dough soft but not sticky. Wrap the filling with clean hands. Brush it with egg until it shines, then bake until the bottoms are lightly golden and the tops look set and warm. This is the other half of the island table: not one ocean, one canoe, one root, but the harbor, the plantation town, the corner bakery, and all the people who stayed.
Manjū came to Hawaiʻi with Japanese immigrants who arrived in large numbers beginning in 1885 to work the sugar plantations, bringing okashi, Japanese sweets, into plantation towns and later neighborhood bakeries. In Japan, manjū is often steamed, but Hawaiʻi's Local baked version became common in home kitchens and okashi shops, with azuki paste beside island-style lima bean filling. This is post-contact Local food, not Kanaka Maoli deep food, and that honesty matters because Hawaiʻi's table holds both the canoe crops and the immigrant sweets without needing to blur them.
Quantity
3 cups
plus more for dusting
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup
cut into small cubes
Quantity
1
Quantity
1/3 cup
plus 1 to 2 tablespoons more if the dough needs it
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 cups
rolled into 24 small balls
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for egg wash
Quantity
1 tablespoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flourplus more for dusting | 3 cups |
| granulated sugar | 1/2 cup |
| baking powder | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| cold unsalted buttercut into small cubes | 1 cup |
| large egg | 1 |
| evaporated milkplus 1 to 2 tablespoons more if the dough needs it | 1/3 cup |
| vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| sweet azuki bean paste (anko), or sweet lima bean pasterolled into 24 small balls | 2 cups |
| egg yolk | 1 |
| evaporated milkfor egg wash | 1 tablespoon |
| sesame seeds (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
Roll the azuki or lima bean paste into 24 balls, about 1 tablespoon each, and set them on a plate. If the paste is sticky, chill it for 15 minutes. The filling should hold its shape, soft enough to bite clean, firm enough that it doesn't run away from you.
Whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a wide bowl. Cut in the cold butter with your fingertips or a pastry cutter until the mixture looks like coarse sand with a few pea-size pieces left. Those little pieces make the crust tender, so no need rub it all to dust.
Beat the egg, evaporated milk, and vanilla together, then stir them into the flour mixture just until a soft dough gathers. If dry flour is still sitting at the bottom, add evaporated milk 1 teaspoon at a time. Stop when the dough holds together. Overwork it and the crust gets tough, and no blame the dough for what our hands did.
Pat the dough into a disk, wrap it, and chill for 20 minutes. Divide into 24 pieces. Keep the pieces covered while you work so they don't crust over in the kitchen air.
Flatten one dough piece into a 3-inch round, thicker in the center and thinner at the edges. Set a filling ball in the middle, gather the dough up around it, and pinch the seam closed. Roll gently between your palms, then set seam-side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet. If a little filling shows, patch it. No drama.
Beat the egg yolk with 1 tablespoon evaporated milk. Brush each manjū lightly so the tops bake glossy and golden, then sprinkle with sesame seeds if you like. That shine is the bakery-case look, simple and honest.
Bake at 350F for 22 to 25 minutes, until the tops are set, the egg wash has a soft golden sheen, and the bottoms are lightly browned. Cool on the sheet for 10 minutes, then move to a rack. The filling stays hot inside longer than you think, so let it settle before biting.
Serve warm or room temperature, the way it comes from a home kitchen or old okashi-shop box. Pack leftovers in a cookie tin once fully cool. These are better when they're shared, and better still the next morning with coffee.
1 serving (about 55g)
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