
Chef Lesia
Banosh (банош, Carpathian cornmeal porridge)
Cornmeal and sour cream go over the flame pale and separate, then suddenly turn glossy, yellow, and almost stubborn. Stir one way only, the shepherds say, and listen.
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The filling becomes the dumpling here: salty curd cheese, egg, and just enough flour cut into soft little pillows, then boiled until they rise and shine with butter.
The trick is that there is no wrapper. All the soft curd filling that usually waits inside a varenyky seam becomes the dumpling itself, tender and a little springy, with a clean dairy tang and butter catching in the ridges. It is breakfast made by someone who has people to feed and not much time to impress them.
These are called linyvi varenyky, lazy varenyky, but laziness is a joke here, not a crime. You still have to know when to stop. Too much flour and they turn heavy; too little and they fall apart in the pot. The dough should feel like a soft earlobe, sticky enough to dust, firm enough to roll.
My aunt's letter only says, "add flour until it listens," which is funny until your first batch dissolves like gossip in hot water. Use dry, pressed curd cheese if you can, what we call tvorih, and drain supermarket cottage cheese if that's what you have. Cook them until they float and then give them one breath more, until the water sounds gentle again.
Butter first, then smetana. A spoon of sour cherry jam if July has been kind, a little sugar if it hasn't. This is the grandmother-in-a-hurry breakfast, enough for four civil people or one child who has decided dumplings are the whole morning.
Linyvi varenyky grew from the same Ukrainian dairy kitchen as filled varenyky: fresh curd cheese, tvorih, was a farmhouse staple wherever milk was kept and soured at home. By the twentieth century the dish appeared widely in home notebooks and Soviet-era cookery books as a quick version of varenyky, but Ukrainian cooks kept the important part intact: the clean tang of curd, the butter finish, and the bowl passed around the table.
Quantity
500g
Quantity
1 large
Quantity
2 tablespoons, plus more to serve
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon vanilla sugar or 1/2 teaspoon extract
Quantity
90g, plus more for dusting
Quantity
40g
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dry tvorih, farmer's cheese, or well-drained cottage cheese | 500g |
| egg | 1 large |
| sugar | 2 tablespoons, plus more to serve |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| vanilla sugar or vanilla extract (optional) | 1 teaspoon vanilla sugar or 1/2 teaspoon extract |
| plain flour | 90g, plus more for dusting |
| butter | 40g |
| smetana or sour cream | to serve |
| sour cherry jam or fresh berries (optional) | to serve |
If your curd cheese feels wet, wrap it in a clean cloth and squeeze gently over the sink. You want it crumbly and damp, not leaking. Wet cheese asks for too much flour, and too much flour is how lazy varenyky lose their tenderness.
Mash the curd with the egg, sugar, salt, and vanilla if using, then stir in the flour. Stop when it comes together as a soft, slightly sticky dough. It should hold its shape when pressed, but still feel tender under your fingers, not tight or rubbery.
Dust the board lightly with flour and divide the dough into four pieces. Roll each piece into a rope about as thick as your thumb, then cut on the slant into small pillows. Press each one lightly with the side of a knife or your finger if you want a ridge for butter to cling to.
Bring a wide pot of salted water to a lively boil, then lower it so the surface moves but does not throw the dumplings around. Drop in half the varenyky and stir once from the bottom so none stick. When they float, let the water settle back into its gentle sound, then lift them out with a slotted spoon.
Slide the hot dumplings into a warm bowl with butter and turn them carefully until glossy. Serve at once with cold smetana, a little sugar, and sour cherry jam if you have it. The contrast is the whole pleasure: warm curd, cool cream, sharp fruit.
1 serving (about 210g)
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