
Chef Makoa
Butter Mochi (Hawaiʻi Local Mochiko Coconut Cake)
A chewy, golden Hawaiʻi Local square from mochiko, butter, and coconut milk, baked in one pan until the edges pull crisp and the middle stays tender.
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Tart golden lilikoi curd set over a buttery shortbread crust, the backyard passion fruit of Hawaiʻi turned into the kind of Local bake-sale bar that disappears before lunch.
The table in Hawaiʻi has two hands on it. One reaches back to the loʻi, the kalo, the ʻulu, the fish, the imu, deep food that came in the canoe. The other hand reaches into the bakery case, the school potluck, the cookie tin on the Formica table, all the food our immigrant families brought and the islands made Local. These lilikoi bars belong to that second hand, Hawaiʻi Local, not Kanaka Maoli ceremony, and still plenty loved.
Lilikoi, passion fruit, climbs fences and backyards all over the islands, dropping wrinkled yellow fruit that looks tired to somebody who doesn't know. No throw that one out. That's the good one. The skin wrinkles when the perfume and tartness are ready, and that sharp juice cuts through butter and sugar the way a good auntie cuts through too much talking. Straight to the point.
This bar is cousin to the lemon bar from the American bake-sale table, but Hawaiʻi made it answer to our yard. Same with the malasada from Portuguese hands, andagi from Okinawan hands, gau from Chinese hands, hopia from Filipino hands, mochi from Japanese hands. None of that is the food of the loʻi, and no need pretend. It is still the way Hawaiʻi eats now: potluck pan, paper napkin, one piece in your hand, one more wrapped for somebody who couldn't make it.
Passion fruit was introduced to Hawaiʻi in the late 1800s, with purple passion fruit recorded on Maui around 1880, and the Hawaiian name lilikoi became tied to the fruit as it spread through island yards and farms. The shortbread-and-curd bar is a modern Hawaiʻi Local sweet, borrowing the lemon bar structure from American home baking and replacing the citrus with backyard lilikoi. It sits in the same Local register as malasadas, butter mochi, chichi dango, and shave ice: post-contact, immigrant-shaped, everyday Hawaiʻi food rather than pre-contact deep food.
Quantity
1 cup
softened
Quantity
1/2 cup
for the crust
Quantity
2 cups
for the crust
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
for the crust
Quantity
4
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
for the lilikoi curd
Quantity
1/2 cup
strained, or thawed unsweetened passion fruit puree
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1/4 cup
for the filling
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
for the filling
Quantity
2 tablespoons
melted and cooled slightly
Quantity
for dusting
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| unsalted buttersoftened | 1 cup |
| granulated sugarfor the crust | 1/2 cup |
| all-purpose flourfor the crust | 2 cups |
| fine sea saltfor the crust | 1/4 teaspoon |
| large eggs | 4 |
| granulated sugarfor the lilikoi curd | 1 1/2 cups |
| fresh lilikoi juicestrained, or thawed unsweetened passion fruit puree | 1/2 cup |
| lemon or lime juice | 2 tablespoons |
| all-purpose flourfor the filling | 1/4 cup |
| fine sea saltfor the filling | 1/2 teaspoon |
| unsalted buttermelted and cooled slightly | 2 tablespoons |
| powdered sugar (optional) | for dusting |
Heat the oven to 350F. Line a 9-by-13-inch metal baking pan with parchment, leaving handles on two sides, and lightly butter the exposed ends. This is a potluck bar, so make it easy to lift clean and cut straight.
Beat the softened butter and 1/2 cup sugar until creamy, then mix in 2 cups flour and 1/4 teaspoon salt until the dough looks sandy and starts clumping when you squeeze it. Press it firmly into the pan in an even layer, all the way to the corners. No need make it precious, just make it level.
Bake the crust for 18 to 22 minutes, until the edges are lightly golden and the center looks dry and set. It should smell buttery and warm, not browned deep like a cookie. While it bakes, make the lilikoi filling so the curd can go onto a hot crust.
If you're using fresh lilikoi, scoop the pulp into a strainer and press until you have 1/2 cup bright juice. Keep a few seeds only if you like that backyard look, but strain most of them out so the bars cut clean. Wrinkled fruit gives the strongest perfume. Eat what you have, but choose the fruit that smells alive.
Whisk the eggs and 1 1/2 cups sugar until smooth, then whisk in the lilikoi juice, lemon or lime juice, 1/4 cup flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and the melted butter. The mixture should be glossy, golden, and loose, with no dry flour pockets. That tart smell should come up before it ever hits the oven.
Pour the filling over the hot crust and return the pan to the oven. Bake 20 to 25 minutes, until the edges are set and the center gives a soft wobble when you nudge the pan. Don't wait for it to go firm in the oven. It finishes as it cools, and if you push it too far the curd turns tough.
Cool the pan at room temperature for 1 hour, then chill at least 1 hour more. The top will settle into a smooth golden sheen and the shortbread will firm enough for clean squares. This is the hard part, yeah? The waiting. But the bar cuts better when you let it rest.
Lift the slab out by the parchment, dust with powdered sugar if you want, and cut into 16 squares with a warm, wiped knife. Serve chilled or cool, stacked on a plate for the table. One for now, one for the auntie who sent the lilikoi over the fence.
1 serving (about 75g)
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