
Chef Ally
All-Butter Croissants
Shatteringly crisp, impossibly tender, and layered with the finest butter you can find. Two days of patience rewarded with the most honest croissant you will ever bake.
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A tender, buttery shell holding sunshine-bright lemon curd, finished with raspberries so fresh they still hold the warmth of the field. Two ingredients at their peak need nothing more.
Start with the lemons. They should feel heavy for their size, the skin taut and fragrant even before you cut. A good lemon announces itself. Meyer lemons from a backyard tree or the farmers market will give you a curd so floral and bright that you will understand why generations of French grandmothers made this tart.
The raspberries come next. Look for berries with a soft matte finish, not shiny or hard. Shiny means underripe. Soft means they were picked at perfect ripeness and need to be used today. That is exactly what you want. If you find yourself at a market where the farmer lets you taste one, do it. You are looking for that balance of sweet and tart, the aliveness that fades within hours of picking.
This tart is an exercise in restraint. The shell is tender and buttery, made by pressing rather than rolling, so it stays delicate. The curd is simple: lemons, eggs, butter, sugar. Nothing more. When the ingredients are right, the technique becomes almost invisible. You are getting out of the way.
Make this for someone you love. The kind of dessert you carry carefully to the table, the raspberries trembling slightly, the whole thing almost too beautiful to cut into. Almost.
Quantity
1 1/4 cups (155g)
Quantity
1/2 cup (60g)
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
9 tablespoons (126g)
cut into small cubes
Quantity
2
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
4 large
zested and juiced
Quantity
1 cup (200g)
Quantity
4
at room temperature
Quantity
1/2 cup (1 stick/113g)
cut into tablespoon-sized pieces
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
2 cups
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flour | 1 1/4 cups (155g) |
| powdered sugar | 1/2 cup (60g) |
| fine sea salt (for pastry) | 1/4 teaspoon |
| cold unsalted butter (for pastry)cut into small cubes | 9 tablespoons (126g) |
| large egg yolks (for pastry) | 2 |
| pure vanilla extract | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fresh lemonszested and juiced | 4 large |
| granulated sugar | 1 cup (200g) |
| large eggs (for curd)at room temperature | 4 |
| unsalted butter (for curd)cut into tablespoon-sized pieces | 1/2 cup (1 stick/113g) |
| fine sea salt (for curd) | pinch |
| fresh raspberries | 2 cups |
Whisk together the flour, powdered sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Add the cold butter cubes and work them into the flour using your fingertips or a pastry blender until the mixture resembles coarse sand with some pea-sized pieces remaining. These butter pieces will create the tender, crumbly texture you want. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and vanilla. Drizzle over the flour mixture and stir with a fork until the dough just begins to clump together. It will look shaggy. That is right.
Turn the dough out onto a clean surface and press it together into a disk. Do not knead. Transfer the dough directly into a 9-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Press the dough evenly across the bottom and up the sides, using your knuckles to work it into the fluted edges. The dough should be about 1/8-inch thick throughout. Prick the bottom all over with a fork. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or until very firm. This rest prevents shrinking.
Preheat your oven to 375°F. Line the chilled shell with parchment paper and fill with pie weights or dried beans, pressing them into the corners. Bake for 20 minutes. Carefully remove the weights and parchment. The edges will be pale gold, the bottom still slightly raw. Return to the oven and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, until the entire shell is deep golden and the bottom looks dry. Cool completely on a wire rack.
While the shell bakes, zest all four lemons using a microplane, taking only the bright yellow layer and avoiding the bitter white pith. You should have about 2 tablespoons of zest. Then juice the lemons. You need 3/4 cup of fresh juice. Strain out the seeds but leave the pulp. The oils in fresh zest have an aliveness that bottled juice will never give you.
In a medium saucepan, whisk together the sugar and lemon zest until the sugar is fragrant and slightly damp. Add the eggs and whisk until smooth. Stir in the lemon juice and salt. Set the pan over medium-low heat and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens enough to coat a spoon and leaves a clear trail when you draw your finger across it, about 8 to 10 minutes. Do not let it boil or the eggs will curdle.
Remove the pan from heat immediately. Add the butter one piece at a time, whisking after each addition until melted and incorporated. The butter makes the curd silky and rich. Strain the curd through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl to remove any bits of cooked egg and the zest. Press the curd through with a spatula. You want it perfectly smooth.
Pour the warm curd into the cooled tart shell. It should fill the shell nearly to the top. Gently shake the pan to level the surface. Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the curd to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, until the curd is completely set and cold throughout. The tart can be made to this point a day ahead.
Just before serving, remove the tart from the refrigerator and carefully unmold it from the pan. Arrange the raspberries over the surface of the curd in concentric circles, or scatter them in a way that feels natural to you. Do not wash the berries until the last moment, and pat them dry gently. Wet berries will make the curd weep. Serve within an hour of adding the fruit.
1 serving (about 125g)
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