Lahanodolmades Yialantzi of Macedonia and Thrace (Λαχανοντολμάδες Γιαλαντζί)

Lahanodolmades yialantzi belong to the fasting tables of Macedonia and Thrace: cabbage leaves wrapped around rice, onion, dill, mint, lemon, and good olive oil. No meat. No egg. The roll is soft and pale, the filling loose enough to stay tender, and the pot liquor sharp with lemon.

The step that decides the dish is the cabbage. Blanch the head whole, peel the leaves as they soften, then trim the thick ribs flat. A leaf that is only half-softened tears under your fingers; a leaf boiled to exhaustion tastes tired. You want it pliable enough to roll snugly, with a little room left for the rice to swell.

I keep this one in my notebook under Clean Monday, because this is where the fasting calendar shows its intelligence. A plant-based table in Greece is not a correction. It is inheritance. Serve the rolls warm or at room temperature, with lemon, oil, and patience.