Aegean Island Kalamarakia Tiganita (Καλαμαράκια Τηγανητά)

Kalamarakia tiganita belong to the Aegean islands and every working harbor where small squid comes in bright-eyed and clean-smelling. The dish is simple because the sea is doing most of the work: squid rings, a dry flour coat, hot oil, lemon. Nothing more has been invited.

The one rule is speed. Squid turns tough when it lingers, so the oil must be hot before it goes in and the batch must be small enough that the heat doesn't collapse. A minute or two is not a suggestion here. It is the difference between tender squid and a plate of rubber bands with lemon.

I flour it at the last moment, shake it hard, and fry it pale gold, not dark brown. That is the taverna plate I trust on a July table by the water, with salt on your fingers and a cold glass beside it. Λίγα και καλά: good squid, dry flour, hot oil, lemon.