Cycladic Kolokithakia Tiganita (Κολοκυθάκια Τηγανητά)

Cycladic kolokithakia tiganita are the summer frying pan at its simplest: young courgettes sliced thin, salted, floured, and sent into hot oil until the edges turn crisp and pale gold. On the islands they come to the table as meze, usually with tzatziki, lemon, and often a few aubergine fries sharing the plate.

The slicing and salting are the whole matter. Thick courgettes soften before they crisp. Unsalted ones carry too much water, so the coating turns heavy and the pan gives you limp rounds instead of lacy ones. Slice them thin, let the salt do its work, dry them well, and the flour clings as a veil, not a coat.

This is not a complicated dish, but it is an honest one. Good oil, small firm courgettes, and patience with the batches. My grandmother Despina would have called that Λίγα και καλά, a few things, and good ones.