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Kumara (Rapa Nui Sweet Potato)

Kumara (Rapa Nui Sweet Potato)

Created by Chef Makoa

Rapa Nui kumara, the sweet potato of stone gardens and salt wind, roasted tender in a home oven or boiled for the weeknight table, the daily bread of the far corner.

Side Dishes
Polynesian, Rapa Nui
Comfort Food
Weeknight
Budget Friendly
10 min
Active Time
40 min cook•50 min total
Yield4 to 6 servings

At the far corner of the canoe road, Rapa Nui learned to feed family from stone, wind, and patience. This kumara is theirs, the sweet potato of Rapa Nui, grown in dark volcanic ground and held by manavai, stone garden circles that protect a plant from salt air and dry wind. The old people called it el pan de cada día, the daily bread, because it sat beside fish the way poi sits by my bowl back home: quiet, filling, steady.

My own hands know kalo from windward Oʻahu, so I don't pretend Rapa Nui's deepest table is mine. I cook this open-handed and send you to Rapa Nui elders for the sacred parts, the umu pae, the stone-lined earth oven, and the stories of their gardens. What I can do is name the cousin line right: Rapa Nui kumara, Māori kūmara, Cook Islands kūmara, Tahitian ʻumara, Sāmoan ʻumala, Tongan kumala, Hawaiian ʻuala. One ocean, one canoe, one root.

At home tonight, keep it simple. Scrub the roots, cut them thick, salt them like the sea is in the room, and roast them covered first so the heart softens, then open the pan so the edges take color. If the oven is full, boil them instead. Eat what you have. The kinship is in the care, not in making the meal hard.

Ingredients

kumara or firm sweet potatoes

Quantity

2 pounds

scrubbed and cut into 1 1/2-inch wedges

neutral oil, melted coconut oil, or rendered fat

Quantity

2 tablespoons

coarse sea salt

Quantity

1 teaspoon

plus more to finish

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