
Chef Dimitra
Arkatena Omodous (Αρκατένα Ομόδους)
Omodos arkatena are Cypriot chickpea-leavened rusks, pale inside and sesame-studded, baked once as little rings and again until they crack clean under the tooth and keep beautifully.
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Crete's barley paximadi is bread made for keeping: sourdough, barley flour, a firm bake, then a slow second drying until it waits for water, tomato, and oil.
Kritiko paximadi is Crete's barley rusk, the bread that became harder so it could last longer. It is not a cracker and not a biscuit. It is sourdough bread, shaped low and sturdy, baked once to set, then baked again until dry enough to keep for weeks in a tin or cloth sack.
The method that decides it is the second bake. Dry it low and long until the cut face is pale, sandy, and hard all the way through. If the center keeps even a little softness, the rusk will stale badly or grow mold instead of keeping. Dip it quickly in water before serving and it comes back to life, just enough to drink tomato juice and green-gold olive oil without collapsing.
For dakos, I wet one paximadi under the tap for a breath, then pile it with grated ripe tomato, fresh mizithra or xinomizithra, oregano, olives, and oil. Λίγα και καλά. A few things, and good ones. The region is the dish's surname, and Crete knew how to make bread for shepherds, sailors, and anyone whose meal had to wait.
Cretan paximadi belongs to an older bread economy built around barley, the grain that tolerated the island's dry fields better than wheat. Rusks were baked and dried so they could travel with shepherds, sailors, and farm workers, then softened with water, tomato, oil, or broth at the table. The round barley rusk used for dakos, often called kritharokouloura, is one of Crete's clearest examples of bread made for storage before daily baking was possible.
Quantity
200g
100% hydration, bubbly and recently fed
Quantity
350g
Quantity
300g
finely milled
Quantity
300g
Quantity
150g
Quantity
20g
Quantity
14g
Quantity
as needed
for dusting
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| active sourdough starter100% hydration, bubbly and recently fed | 200g |
| lukewarm water | 350g |
| barley flourfinely milled | 300g |
| strong bread flour | 300g |
| whole wheat flour | 150g |
| extra virgin olive oil | 20g |
| fine sea salt | 14g |
| barley flour (optional)for dusting | as needed |
Stir the sourdough starter into the lukewarm water until cloudy. Add the barley flour, bread flour, whole wheat flour, olive oil, and salt. Mix until no dry flour remains. The dough will feel dense and a little rough because barley has little gluten, so don't expect a silky wheat dough.
Cover the bowl and rest the dough for 30 minutes. With wet hands, fold the edges into the center 8 to 10 times, turning the bowl as you go. You are building just enough strength for low, firm rings, not a high loaf.
Cover and let the dough rise at room temperature for 4 to 6 hours, until it looks slightly puffed and smells pleasantly sour. It will not double like white bread. Barley keeps it modest, and that is correct.
Lightly flour the bench with barley flour. Divide the dough into 10 pieces of about 100g each. Shape each piece into a thick ring or low round, about 10cm across, pressing a hole through the center if making rings. Set them on two lined baking trays with space between them.
Cover with a clean cloth and proof for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until the rings look fuller and a finger pressed gently into the side leaves a slow mark. They should still feel firm. If they overproof, they spread and bake weak.
Heat the oven to 200 C. Bake the rings for 25 to 30 minutes, until lightly browned and set through. Transfer them to a rack and let them cool for 20 minutes, just until you can handle them without breaking your fingers on hot bread.
Use a serrated knife to split each ring horizontally into two halves. Work slowly. The first bake gives you bread; this cut opens the crumb so the second bake can dry it properly.
Lower the oven to 120 C. Arrange the halves cut-side up and bake for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, turning the trays once, until the rusks are hard, dry, and pale through the middle. This is the whole point. A paximadi that keeps must be dry to its heart.
Turn off the oven, crack the door, and leave the rusks inside for 30 minutes. Cool completely on a rack before storing in a tin or cloth bag. Serve by dipping briefly in water, then dressing for dakos with tomato, mizithra, oregano, olives, and olive oil.
1 serving (about 90g)
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