Kongnamul-jjigae (Soybean Sprout Stew)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Ttukbaegi (Korean earthenware pot) or 2-quart heavy saucepan with lid
• •Fine strainer or slotted spoon
• •Measuring spoons

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the broth

   If you do not already have broth, put 3 cups water, the kelp, and the cleaned anchovies in a small pot. Bring just to a simmer over medium heat, pull the kelp out, and simmer the anchovies 8 minutes more. Strain. Kelp left too long turns the broth slick and bitter, and this stew needs a clean base.

2. 2

   Rinse the sprouts

   Rinse the soybean sprouts in cold water and drain well. Trim only the brown or tired tails; don't sit there making them pretty for twenty minutes. The yellow heads and pale stems are the dish, so keep them whole and unbruised.

   Fresh sprouts smell clean and nutty. If they smell sour before cooking, choose another dish tonight.
3. 3

   Start the pork

   Heat the oil in a ttukbaegi or small heavy pot over medium heat. Add the pork, if using, and cook 3 to 4 minutes, until some fat renders and the edges lose their raw color. Add the onion and cook 2 minutes more. This small amount of pork is seasoning, not the whole meal.

4. 4

   Bloom the chili

   Stir in the gochugaru and cook 20 to 30 seconds, just until the oil turns red. Add the gochujang only if you want a rounder, slightly thicker broth. One teaspoon is enough. Too much and every spoonful tastes like paste instead of soybean sprout.

5. 5

   Cook the sprouts

   Add the broth, soy sauce, soup soy sauce or fish sauce, garlic, salt, and soybean sprouts. Bring to a boil. Cover the pot and cook 6 minutes without lifting the lid. This is the rule: lid on the whole time, or lid off the whole time. Half-cooked sprouts meeting cold air make a harsh beany smell, and there is no garnish that fixes it.

6. 6

   Add tofu

   Open the lid after the 6 minutes are done. Add the tofu, if using, and simmer uncovered 3 to 4 minutes, until the tofu is warmed through and the sprouts are flexible but still crunchy. Taste the broth now. Add salt in pinches only if it needs it, because the soy sauces have already done part of the work.

7. 7

   Finish cleanly

   Add the green chili and scallions and simmer 1 minute. Turn off the heat and stir in the sesame oil. Scatter sesame seeds over the top if using. Carry the pot to the table with rice and one or two quiet banchan; the stew is strong enough to lead, but it should not shout.

Chef Tips

• •For an anchovy-only version, skip the pork and start the onion in the oil, then bloom the gochugaru and add the broth. Use the full teaspoon of soup soy sauce or 1/2 teaspoon fish sauce so the pot has depth without meat.
• •Use fresh soybean sprouts the day you buy them if you can. Store them in the refrigerator in a covered container with cold water for up to 2 days, changing the water daily.
• •Do not make the broth heavy. Three cups liquid to 300 grams sprouts gives you jjigae: enough broth to spoon over rice, not enough to become soup.
• •Safe corners to cut: use prepared anchovy broth tablets or a clean low-sodium stock in a weeknight kitchen. Do not cut the lid rule or the short cooking time. Those are the dish.

Advance Preparation

• •Anchovy-kelp broth can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated, or frozen for 1 month.
• •The vegetables can be washed and cut a few hours ahead, but keep the soybean sprouts cold and drained. Cook them only when you are ready to eat.
• •Leftovers keep 1 day refrigerated. Reheat gently and expect the sprouts to soften; the first pot is the best pot.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 345g)