
Chef Takumi
Candied Dried Sardines (田作り, Tazukuri)
Tazukuri asks for one careful pan: toast the little dried fish until brittle, coat them in a glossy soy-sugar glaze, and stop before sweetness turns bitter.
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Kōhaku kamaboko asks almost no cooking from you. It asks for good fish cake, a clean cut, and enough space in the jubako for the red and white to speak.
Kōhaku kamaboko looks ceremonial because it is. Red and white slices sit at the front of osechi, the New Year foods packed into the lacquered jubako, and the curve of each slice suggests the first sun rising over the year. It is not a difficult dish. It is a sourcing dish with a knife attached.
The one detail that decides it is the kamaboko itself. Buy a proper board-mounted fish cake made from white fish surimi, springy but not rubbery, with a clean sea sweetness and no harsh perfume of additives. There is no sauce here to rescue a dull one. Nothing hidden. The color should be gentle, pink over white, not a shout from the dye bottle.
Then cut with composure. Remove the board by sliding the knife flat between wood and fish cake, because tearing the bottom spoils the neat face of every slice. Slice a little thicker than you think, about 8 mm, so each piece stands in the box with its curved back proud. Arrange red and white in odd-numbered rows and leave it room. Ma, the empty space, is not decoration. It lets the New Year breathe.
Kamaboko is recorded in Japan by the late Heian period, with an early reference often tied to a banquet in 1115, though its form then was skewered fish paste rather than the board-mounted half cylinder common today. The wooden board, or ita, became closely associated with Odawara and other coastal production centers where fresh white fish could be processed quickly. In osechi ryōri, red and white kamaboko are read as celebratory colors, with the half-moon slice recalling the first sunrise of the year.
Quantity
1 piece (about 150g)
Quantity
1 piece (about 150g)
Quantity
1 small sheet
for wiping the knife
Quantity
a few
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| red or pink board-mounted kamaboko | 1 piece (about 150g) |
| white board-mounted kamaboko | 1 piece (about 150g) |
| clean paper towelfor wiping the knife | 1 small sheet |
| pine needles or nanten leaves (optional) | a few |
Look for board-mounted kamaboko with a short, plain ingredient list and a gentle pink surface over a white body. It should smell clean and faintly sweet, never sharp or fishy. This dish has almost no seasoning, so the fish cake has to carry itself.
Keep the kamaboko cold until you cut it. A chilled fish cake slices cleanly and holds its spring, while a warm one drags under the knife and loses the tidy curve that makes it belong in osechi.
Set the kamaboko board-side down. Slide a thin knife flat between the fish cake and the wooden board, keeping the blade almost touching the wood, and ease it forward in one smooth pass. The board shaped the cake as it set, but it should not tear the bottom when it leaves.
Cut the red and white kamaboko crosswise into slices about 8 mm thick. Wipe the blade between colors so the white stays white and the pink edge stays clean. Let the knife do the seasoning here: a smooth face catches the light, and a ragged one makes a careful food look tired.
Stand the slices upright or lean them slightly, alternating red and white in a curved row. The pink edge should face the same direction, like small suns rising one after another. Leave at least a third of the compartment empty, because crowded osechi looks anxious, and New Year food should not fidget.
Serve the kamaboko cool or at room temperature on the New Year table. It needs no sauce in the jubako. If serving it outside osechi as a small bite, a little wasabi and soy may sit beside it, but not over it.
1 serving (about 33g)
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