
Chef Jeong-sun
Aehobak-bokkeum (Korean Stir-Fried Zucchini)
Tender Korean zucchini half-moons cooked quickly over real heat, seasoned with salted shrimp so the squash tastes deeper than oil and still clean enough for a weeknight table.
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Tiny dried anchovies and wrinkled green peppers, each cooked at its own speed, then pulled together in a soy glaze that clings without burying either one.
The mistake is putting the anchovies and peppers into the same pan at the same time. Master Seong-nyeo would tap the rim of the skillet for that: fish dries, peppers soften, syrup burns. Notebook 42 says it more politely: anchovies first, peppers second, glaze last. Give each one its own minute and this small banchan becomes clean and lively instead of salty and tired.
Kkwarigochu-myeolchi-bokkeum is the kind of side dish that earns its place quietly. It goes into a dosirak (lunchbox), sits beside rice and gyeran-mari (rolled omelet), and comes out again at dinner when nobody has the strength to cook three new banchan. The peppers are best from late spring through early autumn, when they are thin-skinned and wrinkled, but good shishito peppers will carry you through many markets now. Cook the month you're standing in: if the peppers are thick and dull, make plain myeolchi-bokkeum and save this one for a better basket.
Tonight it asks only for attention. Sift the anchovies, dry-toast them, dry the peppers, then reduce the soy glaze until it coats instead of pools. Use less soy than your hand wants, because the anchovies already carry salt. Write it down. Memory is a borrowed bowl, and lunchbox food deserves the notebook as much as feast food does.
Kkwarigochu-myeolchi-bokkeum belongs to mitbanchan (long-keeping side dishes), the practical side dishes Korean households keep ready so rice can become a meal without cooking everything again. Its modern lunchbox life grew during the school and work dosirak culture of the 1960s through 1980s, when dried anchovies supplied affordable calcium and protein and a light soy glaze helped the banchan travel. Kkwarigochu (꽈리고추), the wrinkled mild pepper used here, is eaten whole; paired with myeolchi (dried anchovies), it cuts salt with green bitterness and the occasional sharp pepper.
Quantity
200g
stems trimmed, washed and dried very well
Quantity
50g (about 1 heaping cup)
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 cloves
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| kkwarigochu (wrinkled mild green peppers) or shishito peppersstems trimmed, washed and dried very well | 200g |
| small dried anchovies (jiri-myeolchi or bokkeum-myeolchi) | 50g (about 1 heaping cup) |
| neutral oil | 1 tablespoon |
| garlicthinly sliced | 2 cloves |
| soy sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| water | 1 tablespoon |
| cheongju (Korean rice wine) or mirim | 1 tablespoon |
| jocheong (rice syrup) or corn syrup | 2 teaspoons |
| sugar | 1/2 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame oil | 1 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame seeds | 1 teaspoon |
Shake the dried anchovies in a fine sieve over the sink or a bowl to lose the powdery crumbs. Those crumbs scorch first and make the whole pan taste old. If your anchovies are longer than 4 cm, pinch off the heads and pull out the dark guts, but tiny jiri-myeolchi can stay whole. Put them in a dry wide skillet over medium-low heat and stir 2 to 3 minutes, until they feel dry and a little crisp. Tip them onto a plate.
Trim only the hard stem tips and leave the caps so the peppers keep their shape. Prick each pepper once with a skewer or make a 5 mm slit near the stem. This keeps them from popping in the pan and lets a little glaze enter. Dry them again with a towel. Wet skins do not blister; they collapse.
Stir together the soy sauce, water, cheongju, rice syrup, and sugar in a small bowl until the sugar dissolves. Keep it near the stove. The sauce goes in after the peppers blister, because soy and syrup burn before the peppers have time to soften.
Wipe out the skillet if crumbs remain, then heat the neutral oil over medium-high heat. Add the peppers in as close to a single layer as the pan allows. Toss and press them against the pan for 3 to 4 minutes, until the skins wrinkle and show brown freckles while the green still looks alive. Add the sliced garlic and stir 20 to 30 seconds, just until it smells clean and sharp. Do not let the garlic brown hard.
Lower the heat to medium and pour the glaze around the edge of the pan. Toss for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, until the liquid reduces to a glossy coating and the peppers bend slightly but still have bite. The glaze should mark the spatula in a thin line, not puddle under the peppers.
Return the toasted anchovies to the pan and toss 30 to 45 seconds, just long enough to coat them. They need the glaze, not a long soak. If they clump, pull the pan off the heat and loosen them with chopsticks or the edge of the spatula.
Turn off the heat. Drizzle in the sesame oil, scatter the toasted sesame seeds, and fold everything twice. Spread the banchan in a shallow dish for 5 to 10 minutes before packing it into a container, so the glaze settles instead of trapping moisture. Serve at room temperature with rice, or refrigerate once cool.
1 serving (about 50g)
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