
Chef Dimitra
Cretan Vlita Vrasta (Βλήτα Βραστά)
Crete's summer horta: soft amaranth greens, tender stalks, potatoes, and small zucchini, dressed while warm with sharp lemon and green-gold olive oil, the way a weeknight table actually eats them.
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Kefalonia's beet salad is roots and greens, dressed warm with vinegar and olive oil, then covered with aliada, the island's potato skordalia, sharp with garlic and made for fasting tables.
Kefalonian pantzarosalata is beets and their greens under aliada, the Ionian island's potato skordalia. The roots are boiled in their skins until sweet, the leaves cooked just until the stems give, and everything is dressed warm with vinegar and green-gold oil before the garlic sauce goes on. It is a salad, yes, but it eats like a meal with bread beside it.
The method that decides it is the aliada. Mash hot, starchy potatoes by hand with garlic pounded in salt, then work in the olive oil slowly. A machine makes paste. By hand it stays light enough to sit over the beets without smothering them.
I learned this version from a Kefalonian cook who corrected me every time I said simply skordalia. Aliada, she said, because the island remembers its own words. I don't invent it. I find it, I test it, I write it down, and this one needs only beets, garlic, oil, vinegar, and patience.
On Kefalonia, aliada is the island form of skordalia, its name related to Italian agliata, a garlic sauce that entered Ionian speech during Venetian rule from 1500 to 1797. Beet roots and beet greens became one of its ordinary companions, especially on fasting tables where garlic, potatoes, olive oil, and vinegar could give substance without dairy or meat. The pairing also follows the Greek rule of using the whole plant: the sweet root, the earthy leaf, and the sharp sauce on one platter.
Quantity
1.2kg
roots scrubbed, greens washed in several changes of water
Quantity
450g
peeled and cut into large chunks
Quantity
4
peeled
Quantity
12g
divided, plus extra for boiling water
Quantity
135ml
divided
Quantity
15ml
to finish
Quantity
75ml
divided
Quantity
60-90ml
reserved from boiling the potatoes
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small to medium beets with fresh greensroots scrubbed, greens washed in several changes of water | 1.2kg |
| starchy potatoespeeled and cut into large chunks | 450g |
| garlic clovespeeled | 4 |
| fine sea saltdivided, plus extra for boiling water | 12g |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oildivided | 135ml |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oilto finish | 15ml |
| red wine vinegardivided | 75ml |
| hot potato cooking waterreserved from boiling the potatoes | 60-90ml |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)chopped | 1 tablespoon |
Separate the greens from the roots, leaving about 2cm of stem on each beet so the color stays mostly inside the root. Scrub the roots well. Cut the stems from the leaves, then wash stems and leaves in two or three changes of cold water until no grit drops to the bottom.
Put the beet roots in a large pot, cover with cold water by 3cm, and bring to a boil. Lower to a steady simmer and cook for 35-55 minutes, depending on size, until a small knife slides through the thickest part. Lift them out, let them cool just enough to handle, then rub off the skins and cut the warm beets into wedges.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the beet stems first and cook for 2 minutes, then add the leaves and cook for 3-4 minutes more, until the stems are tender and the leaves are still deep green. Drain well and press lightly, not dry as paper, just enough that water doesn't flood the platter.
Toss the warm beet wedges with 45ml olive oil, 45ml red wine vinegar, and 4g salt. Spoon a little of that dressing over the greens too. Warm beets drink vinegar and oil; cold beets wear it on the outside. Let them sit while you make the aliada.
Simmer the potatoes in salted water for 18-22 minutes, until they break easily under a fork. Reserve 100ml of the cooking water, then drain. Pound the garlic with the remaining 8g salt in a mortar, pass the hot potatoes through a ricer or mash them by hand, and beat in the garlic, 30ml vinegar, and 90ml olive oil little by little. Add 60-90ml hot potato water until the aliada is thick but spoonable.
Spread the beet greens on a wide platter, tuck the beet wedges over them, and spoon the aliada across the top in a generous stripe. Drizzle with the final 15ml olive oil and scatter parsley if you're using it. Serve at room temperature with bread for chasing the garlic and the purple juices.
1 serving (about 300g)
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