
Chef Dimitra
Cretan Vlita Vrasta (Βλήτα Βραστά)
Crete's summer horta: soft amaranth greens, tender stalks, potatoes, and small zucchini, dressed while warm with sharp lemon and green-gold olive oil, the way a weeknight table actually eats them.
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In the Cyclades, mavromatika salata is the Lenten bean salad that needs no plan: black-eyed peas boiled tender, dressed warm with lemon, oil, onion, parsley, and little else.
Cycladic mavromatika salata is the island black-eyed pea salad of Lent: small beans boiled until tender, then dressed with lemon, olive oil, onion, and parsley. It is plain in the best Greek sense. The beans stay whole, the oil shines green-gold, and the onion gives the bite that wakes the bowl.
The whole dish depends on dressing the beans while they're still warm. Drain them tender, not collapsing, and toss them at once with lemon, vinegar, oil, and onion. Warm beans drink; cold beans merely get coated. That is the difference between a salad that tastes seasoned through and one that tastes like boiled beans under a dressing.
This is nistisimo, fasting food, but don't mistake fasting for thin. A bowl of mavromatika with bread, olives, and cabbage salad is a Tuesday supper in the islands, cheap and complete. I keep the Cycladic finish restrained: parsley, maybe capers if they're good. A recipe written down is a recipe saved, but here the beauty is that the pot can go on unplanned.
Black-eyed peas, the cowpeas Greeks call mavromatika fasolia, were known in the Greek world before the common white bean arrived from the Americas in the sixteenth century. In the Aegean islands and the Cyclades, their quick cooking made them useful on fasting days, when meat, dairy, and eggs were off the table and fuel was still counted. The salad form keeps the island logic plain: a pulse, onion, parsley, lemon, and oil, served at room temperature so it can wait for the household.
Quantity
300g
picked over and rinsed
Quantity
1 small, about 100g
peeled and halved
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 1/2 tsp
divided, plus more to taste
Quantity
1 small, about 80g
very thinly sliced
Quantity
45ml
plus extra to finish
Quantity
15ml
Quantity
60ml
plus 1 tbsp to finish
Quantity
30g
leaves and tender stems finely chopped
Quantity
2 tbsp
rinsed and drained
Quantity
1/2 tsp
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried black-eyed peas (mavromatika fasolia)picked over and rinsed | 300g |
| yellow onionpeeled and halved | 1 small, about 100g |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| fine sea saltdivided, plus more to taste | 1 1/2 tsp |
| red onionvery thinly sliced | 1 small, about 80g |
| fresh lemon juiceplus extra to finish | 45ml |
| red wine vinegar | 15ml |
| extra virgin Greek olive oilplus 1 tbsp to finish | 60ml |
| flat-leaf parsleyleaves and tender stems finely chopped | 30g |
| capers (optional)rinsed and drained | 2 tbsp |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 tsp |
Put the rinsed black-eyed peas in a 3 litre pot and cover with cold water by 5cm. Bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes, then drain and rinse the pot. Many island cooks throw away this first water; it gives a cleaner bowl.
Return the beans to the pot with the halved yellow onion and bay leaf. Cover again with fresh cold water by 5cm, bring to a boil, then lower to an easy simmer. Cook for 25 minutes, add 1 tsp of the salt, and continue 10 to 20 minutes more, until the beans are creamy inside but still hold their shape.
While the beans cook, put the sliced red onion in a wide serving bowl with the lemon juice, vinegar, and remaining 1/2 tsp salt. Rub it once or twice with your fingers and let it sit. It should soften just enough to join the beans instead of shouting over them.
Drain the beans well and discard the cooking onion and bay leaf. Tip the warm beans into the bowl with the red onion, add the olive oil and black pepper, and fold gently so the skins do not split. This is the step that decides the salad. Warm beans drink the lemon and oil; cold beans only wear them on the outside.
Let the salad stand for 15 minutes, then fold in the parsley and capers if using. Taste for salt and lemon. It should be bright, not sharp, with the oil glossing the beans rather than pooling heavily at the bottom.
Serve at room temperature with the extra tablespoon of olive oil over the top. Bread belongs beside it. Olives, cabbage salad, or a plate of horta make it a full fasting meal without any apology.
1 serving (about 280g)
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