
Chef Graziella
Arancini alla Siciliana
Golden fried rice balls from Sicily, where Arab culinary influence meets Italian home cooking. The saffron-perfumed rice conceals a heart of slow-simmered ragù and sweet peas.
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Fire-charred peppers wrapped around a filling of tuna, capers, and anchovy. Made a day ahead, the flavors marry into something greater than their parts. This is antipasto as it should be.
These little rolls prove what I have always said: the simplest preparations demand the finest ingredients. You cannot hide behind sauce or seasoning here. Your peppers must be fresh and heavy in the hand. Your tuna must be Italian, packed in olive oil, not that dry flavorless thing in water. Your anchovies must be plump and glistening, not the brown strips that taste only of salt.
The roasting of the peppers is everything. You char them until the skin blackens and blisters, then trap them in their own steam to loosen that skin. What remains is silken flesh, sweet from the fire, ready to embrace whatever you wrap inside.
This is make-ahead food at its finest. The involtini actually improve after a day in the refrigerator. The oil mingles with the pepper juices. The capers release their brine into the tuna. The anchovy, which seemed so assertive when you made the filling, softens into something rounder. By the time you serve them, the flavors have become one thing.
Involtini di peperoni belong to the tradition of Southern Italian antipasti, where preserved fish and vegetables transformed peasant ingredients into elegant starters. The technique of stuffing and rolling vegetables spread from Sicily and Campania northward, adapting to local ingredients but maintaining the principle that simplicity and patience create the most refined flavors.
Quantity
6 large (about 3 pounds)
red and yellow
Quantity
2 cans (5 ounces each)
drained, oil reserved
Quantity
8
drained and minced
Quantity
3 tablespoons
rinsed and roughly chopped
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped fine
Quantity
1/4 cup, plus more for drizzling
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bell peppersred and yellow | 6 large (about 3 pounds) |
| Italian tuna packed in olive oildrained, oil reserved | 2 cans (5 ounces each) |
| anchovy filletsdrained and minced | 8 |
| capersrinsed and roughly chopped | 3 tablespoons |
| flat-leaf parsleychopped fine | 2 tablespoons |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1/4 cup, plus more for drizzling |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| flaky sea salt | to taste |
Set your broiler to high and position a rack four inches from the heat. Place the whole peppers on a sheet pan and broil, turning every few minutes with tongs, until the skin is blackened and blistered on all sides. This takes 20 to 25 minutes. You want the peppers collapsed and thoroughly charred. Do not be timid. The char is where the flavor lives.
Transfer the charred peppers immediately to a large bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let them steam for 15 minutes. The residual heat loosens the skins. When cool enough to handle, peel away the blackened skin with your fingers. It should slip off easily. Do not rinse the peppers under water. You will wash away the smoky flavor you just created. A few black flecks remaining are of no concern.
Cut each pepper in half and remove the stem, seeds, and white ribs. You should have clean, supple pepper halves. Cut each half into strips about two inches wide. You will get two or three strips from each half, depending on the pepper's size. Lay the strips on a clean towel to absorb excess moisture.
In a bowl, flake the drained tuna with a fork. Add the minced anchovies, chopped capers, and parsley. Drizzle in the olive oil and two tablespoons of the reserved tuna oil. Mix gently with a fork until combined. Season with black pepper. Taste before adding salt. The anchovies and capers may provide enough. The filling should be moist but not wet, cohesive enough to hold together when rolled.
Lay a pepper strip on your work surface, inner side facing up. Place a generous tablespoon of filling at one end. Roll the pepper around the filling, tucking in the sides as you go to create a neat bundle. The pepper should wrap around the filling with a slight overlap. Place seam-side down in a shallow serving dish. Repeat with remaining strips and filling.
Arrange the involtini in a single layer in a ceramic or glass dish. Drizzle generously with olive oil. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least four hours, preferably overnight. The flavors need time to marry. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before serving to take the chill off. Finish with a final drizzle of oil and a scattering of flaky salt.
1 serving (about 150g)
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