Chef Lupita
Apaseo el Grande Carnitas (Carnitas Estilo Apaseo)
Guanajuato's Apaseo el Grande carnitas, pork shoulder and skin cooked slowly in manteca de cerdo with orange, salt, and milk, then torn and crisped on the comal for celebration tacos.
Culinary Explorer
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Hidrocálido Pork Shank (Chamorro al Horno)
Created by
Aguascalientes chamorro al horno, pork shank marinated overnight in guajillo-pasilla adobo with naranja agria, then baked low until the skin crackles and the bone gives up clean.
Main Dishes
Mexican
Special Occasion
Comfort Food
Make Ahead
45 min
Active Time
6 hr 30 min cook•19 hr 15 min total
Yield4 servings
Aguascalientes sits in the Bajío and the north-central plateau, small on the map and stubborn at the table. This chamorro al horno is hidrocálido food, pork shank baked slowly in a guajillo-pasilla adobo until the skin tightens and the meat releases from the bone. At the Feria de San Marcos, you understand why the state does not need to shout. The cazuela does the talking.
The chiles matter. Guajillo gives clean red color and a little brightness. Pasilla gives dark fruit and depth. A little ancho rounds the sauce without taking over. Naranja agria cuts through the pork fat, and manteca de cerdo carries the adobo into the meat. La manteca es el sabor. Vegetable oil sits on the surface like it was never invited.
I learned this version from a señora near the Mercado Terán who baked hers overnight, the old practical way, because the oven was already warm and the family would arrive hungry after feria errands. She served it on terracotta plates from Aguascalientes, with potatoes stained red from the adobo and corn tortillas wrapped in a cloth-lined chiquihuite. Nothing precious. Nothing decorated. La cocina no es decoración, es trabajo.
Understand the principle before you start: shank is not tender until time makes it tender. The adobo seasons, the oven softens, the final heat crackles the skin. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Chamorro al horno in Aguascalientes belongs to the Bajío tradition of slow roasted pork dishes tied to family gatherings, cantina tables, and the Feria Nacional de San Marcos, whose modern fair calendar grew from the San Marcos fair established in the 19th century. The dish reflects the region's inland pantry: dried chiles such as guajillo and pasilla, pork from ranching economies, sour citrus or vinegar for preservation and balance, and clay oven cooking adapted to home kitchens. Unlike northern beef shank preparations, the hidrocálido chamorro is pork, marinated in chile adobo and baked for hours until the skin and bone announce the dish.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
skin-on pork shanks (chamorros)
Quantity
4, about 1 1/4 pounds each
kosher salt
Quantity
2 tablespoons
dried chile guajillo
Quantity
10
stemmed and seeded
dried chile pasilla
Quantity
4
stemmed and seeded
dried chile ancho
Quantity
2
stemmed and seeded
white onion
Quantity
1/2 medium
roughly chopped
garlic cloves
Quantity
6
peeled
fresh naranja agria juice
Quantity
1 cup
apple cider vinegar
Quantity
1/4 cup
pork lard (manteca de cerdo)
Quantity
2 tablespoons
melted
dried Mexican oregano
Quantity
1 tablespoon
whole cumin seed
Quantity
1 teaspoon
whole black peppercorns
Quantity
6
whole cloves
Quantity
3
Mexican cinnamon
Quantity
1 small piece, about 1 inch
bay leaves
Quantity
2
piloncillo
Quantity
1 tablespoon
grated
pork stock or water
Quantity
1 cup
small waxy potatoes
Quantity
2 pounds
halved
white onion
Quantity
1 large
sliced thick
warm corn tortillas (optional)
Quantity
for serving
pickled jalapenos and carrots (optional)
Quantity
for serving
salsa de molcajete (optional)
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| skin-on pork shanks (chamorros) | 4, about 1 1/4 pounds each |
| kosher salt | 2 tablespoons |
| dried chile guajillostemmed and seeded | 10 |
| dried chile pasillastemmed and seeded | 4 |
| dried chile anchostemmed and seeded | 2 |
| white onionroughly chopped | 1/2 medium |
| garlic clovespeeled | 6 |
| fresh naranja agria juice | 1 cup |
| apple cider vinegar | 1/4 cup |
| pork lard (manteca de cerdo)melted | 2 tablespoons |
| dried Mexican oregano | 1 tablespoon |
| whole cumin seed | 1 teaspoon |
| whole black peppercorns | 6 |
| whole cloves | 3 |
| Mexican cinnamon | 1 small piece, about 1 inch |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| piloncillograted | 1 tablespoon |
| pork stock or water | 1 cup |
| small waxy potatoeshalved | 2 pounds |
| white onionsliced thick | 1 large |
| warm corn tortillas (optional) | for serving |
| pickled jalapenos and carrots (optional) | for serving |
| salsa de molcajete (optional) | for serving |
Equipment Needed
- •Dry comal or heavy skillet for toasting chiles
- •High-powered blender
- •Fine-mesh strainer
- •Large oven-safe clay cazuela or heavy roasting pan
- •Tongs and a large spoon for basting with chile-stained fat
Instructions
- 1
Salt the shanks
Pat the pork shanks dry and rub them all over with the kosher salt, getting into the folds near the bone. Set them uncovered in the refrigerator for at least 8 hours, preferably overnight. The salt seasons the meat deeply and dries the skin so it can crackle later. Chamorro hidrocálido is pork shank, not beef. Start there or you are already lost.
- 2
Toast the chiles
Heat a dry comal over medium. Toast the guajillo, pasilla, and ancho chiles separately, 20 to 30 seconds per side, pressing them lightly with tongs until the skins puff and the color deepens. The guajillo gives the red color, the pasilla gives the dark fruit, and the ancho rounds the adobo. Do not blacken them. Burned chile makes bitter adobo, and no amount of naranja agria will fix it.
The pasilla is thin and burns fast. Watch it like a señora at the Feria de San Marcos watching her oven before the lunch crowd arrives. - 3
Soak and blend
Put the toasted chiles in a bowl and cover them with hot water for 20 minutes. Drain them. Blend the softened chiles with the chopped onion, garlic, naranja agria juice, vinegar, melted lard, oregano, cumin seed, peppercorns, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves, piloncillo, and pork stock until completely smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. You want a deep brick-red adobo that coats a spoon.
- 4
Marinate overnight
Rub the adobo over every shank, pushing it into the skin cuts and around the bone. Cover and refrigerate at least 8 hours, or overnight. No me vengas con atajos. The chile, sour orange, and salt need time to enter the meat. A quick brush of sauce on the outside gives you painted pork, not chamorro al horno.
- 5
Set the cazuela
Heat the oven to 275F. Spread the thick onion slices in a large clay cazuela or heavy roasting pan. Add the halved potatoes and set the marinated shanks on top, skin side exposed where possible. Pour any remaining adobo around the meat, not over the skin. Cover tightly with a lid or foil. The onions keep the pork from scorching and the potatoes drink the adobo as the fat renders.
- 6
Roast low
Bake for 5 to 6 hours, turning the shanks once halfway through, until the meat pulls back from the bone and a fork slides in with almost no resistance. Keep the oven low. The collagen in the shank needs time, not bullying. This is why families in Aguascalientes put the pan in at night and wake to meat ready for the noon table.
- 7
Crackle the skin
Uncover the pan and raise the oven to 450F. Spoon the red fat from the bottom of the cazuela over the shanks, leaving the skin exposed. Roast 20 to 30 minutes more, until the skin tightens, blisters in spots, and turns dark mahogany at the edges. Watch closely at the end. You want crisp skin, not charred chile.
- 8
Rest and serve
Rest the chamorros for 15 minutes before serving. Set one shank per plate with the adobo-soaked potatoes and onions, then spoon the glossy pan juices around, not over, the crackled skin. Serve with warm corn tortillas, pickled jalapenos and carrots, and salsa de molcajete. This is a knife-and-tortilla dish. Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
Chef Tips
- •Ask the butcher for skin-on pork shanks, chamorros de cerdo. If the skin is removed, you lose the best part of the dish. If they offer beef shank, say no. This recipe is pork.
- •Naranja agria is best. Look for it in Mexican or Caribbean markets. If you cannot find it, use 3/4 cup fresh orange juice mixed with 1/4 cup fresh lime juice. That is a compromise, not an upgrade.
- •Use dried chile guajillo that is flexible and glossy, not brittle and dusty. The chile vendor should know when the sack arrived. Pregúntale a las señoras del mercado.
- •A clay cazuela gives the gentlest heat and looks right on the table. If yours is not rated for the oven, use a heavy roasting pan and serve in terracotta. Do not risk a cracked cazuela for pride.
- •The potatoes are not decoration. They absorb the chile, pork fat, and sour orange while the shanks roast. Use waxy potatoes so they hold their shape.
Advance Preparation
- •Salt the pork shanks the night before and marinate them in the adobo the next morning, or do both the evening before cooking. The longer rest gives better seasoning.
- •The adobo can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated. Bring it to room temperature before rubbing it into the pork.
- •Cooked chamorro reheats well. Cover and warm at 300F until the meat is hot, then uncover at 450F for 10 to 15 minutes to bring the skin back.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 700g)
Calories
1200 calories
Total Fat
52 g
Saturated Fat
18 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
34 g
Cholesterol
235 mg
Sodium
4200 mg
Total Carbohydrates
100 g
Dietary Fiber
17 g
Sugars
21 g
Protein
81 g
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