Chef Klaus
Ähzezupp (Kölsche Erbsensuppe)
The Cologne pea pot earns its depth from soaked peas and cured pork bone, simmered slowly until the soup thickens itself and the meat falls clean from the knuckle.
Culinary Explorer
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Hessische Kartoffelsuppe
Created by
Hesse's weeknight potato soup works because the potatoes do their own thickening: part mashed into the broth, part left in chunks, with leek, celeriac, marjoram, and Würstchen at the end.
Soups & Stews
German
Weeknight
Budget Friendly
Comfort Food
20 min
Active Time
40 min cook•1 hr total
Yield4 servings
Hessische Kartoffelsuppe sits in the middle of Hesse's cold-weather table: floury potatoes, leek, celeriac, carrot, marjoram, and Frankfurter Würstchen sliced through the bowl. It's weeknight Hausmannskost, honest home cooking, but it also turns up on a Sunday when the purse is thin and the pot needs to feed the table. Hesse is not pretending to be Bavaria here. Das ist kein Bierzelt.
Every region makes Kartoffelsuppe, and every region thinks its pot is sensible. In Hesse I want soup greens and marjoram, sometimes a little Speck underneath, sometimes not, with the Würstchen warmed at the end. Farther north the pot often tastes smokier; farther south it can be rounder with cream or butter. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders.
The technique is simple and it decides the soup: mash only part of the potatoes into the broth and leave the rest in chunks. Floury potatoes release enough starch to bind the soup without cream, but a blender tears the starch loose too hard and gives you paste. Mash by hand, gently. The spoon should find both broth and potato, not baby food.
Use the larder properly. Leek tops, parsley stems, a smoked rind if you have one, they belong in the pot or the stock, not in the bin. Weggeworfen wird nichts. Salt only at the end, because stock, Speck, and Würstchen all bring their own. Erst verstehen, dann kochen.
Potatoes entered German fields in the seventeenth century but only became everyday food in many places during the eighteenth century, helped by state pressure such as Frederick II of Prussia's 1756 Kartoffelbefehl, the potato order after grain shortages. Hesse made the tuber a plain kitchen staple with soup greens, leek, celeriac, carrot and parsley root, and Frankfurt put its own mark on the bowl with Frankfurter Würstchen, a smoked pork sausage tied to the city's market and coronation cooking. The disagreement is regional and practical: some Hessian homes build the soup on Speck, others keep the base meatless and warm the sausages only at the end.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
floury potatoes
Quantity
1.1kg
peeled and cut into 2cm chunks
smoked streaky bacon or saved smoked pork rind (optional)
Quantity
80g bacon or 1 rind
bacon diced
rapeseed oil or lard
Quantity
2 tablespoons
onion
Quantity
1 large
finely diced
leek
Quantity
1
white and light green parts sliced, dark tops reserved for stock
carrots
Quantity
2
diced
celeriac
Quantity
200g
peeled and diced
parsley root or small parsnip (optional)
Quantity
1
diced
homemade vegetable stock or light meat stock
Quantity
1.4 litres
unsalted or low salt
bay leaf
Quantity
1
dried marjoram
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus a pinch to finish
flat-leaf parsley
Quantity
1 small bunch
stems chopped, leaves reserved
Frankfurter Würstchen
Quantity
4
sliced into coins
Apfelwein vinegar or cider vinegar
Quantity
1 tablespoon
freshly grated nutmeg
Quantity
to taste
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| floury potatoespeeled and cut into 2cm chunks | 1.1kg |
| smoked streaky bacon or saved smoked pork rind (optional)bacon diced | 80g bacon or 1 rind |
| rapeseed oil or lard | 2 tablespoons |
| onionfinely diced | 1 large |
| leekwhite and light green parts sliced, dark tops reserved for stock | 1 |
| carrotsdiced | 2 |
| celeriacpeeled and diced | 200g |
| parsley root or small parsnip (optional)diced | 1 |
| homemade vegetable stock or light meat stockunsalted or low salt | 1.4 litres |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| dried marjoram | 1 teaspoon, plus a pinch to finish |
| flat-leaf parsleystems chopped, leaves reserved | 1 small bunch |
| Frankfurter Würstchensliced into coins | 4 |
| Apfelwein vinegar or cider vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| freshly grated nutmeg | to taste |
| salt and freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
Equipment Needed
- •Heavy 4 litre soup pot
- •Potato masher
- •Sharp knife
- •Ladle
Instructions
- 1
Cut the vegetables
Peel the potatoes and cut them into even 2cm chunks, because pieces of the same size soften together and let you mash by judgement, not hope. Use floury potatoes, mehligkochend, the kind that fall apart when boiled; waxy potatoes stay tidy but they won't give the broth its body. Split the leek lengthwise and wash between the layers, because grit in a potato soup is not texture.
Don't soak the cut potatoes unless you must hold them for a long time. The starch on the cut surface is the thickener you want in the pot. - 2
Sweat the base
Warm the oil or lard in a heavy soup pot over medium-low heat, then add the bacon or smoked rind if you're using it and let the fat draw out slowly. Add the onion, leek, carrots, celeriac, parsley root, and chopped parsley stems with a small pinch of salt, and cook until the leek softens without browning. Browned leek turns bitter and muddies the soup; soft leek gives sweetness to the broth.
- 3
Simmer the potatoes
Add the potatoes, stock, bay leaf, and marjoram, then bring the pot just to a boil. As soon as it moves, runter mit der Temperatur, down with the temperature, and keep it at a steady simmer for 20 to 25 minutes. A hard boil knocks the potato edges apart before the centres are tender; a steady simmer cooks them through so the chunks still have a say in the bowl.
- 4
Mash to bind
Remove the bay leaf and smoked rind, then mash about one third of the potatoes against the side of the pot with a potato masher or the back of a ladle. Stop while the soup still has clear chunks. The mashed potato releases starch and binds the broth without cream; a blender makes the starch ropey and gives you paste. Nicht aus dem Glas, and not from the machine either.
If the soup gets too thick after mashing, loosen it with a splash of hot stock or water. Potato keeps drinking liquid as it sits. - 5
Warm the Würstchen
Add the sliced Frankfurter Würstchen and keep the soup below a boil for 5 minutes, just long enough to warm them through. They are already cooked; boiling splits the skins and leaks fat into the broth, and then the whole pot tastes tired.
- 6
Finish the soup
Stir in the Apfelwein vinegar, a little nutmeg, black pepper, and the chopped parsley leaves, then taste before adding salt. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss: the stock, bacon, and Würstchen have already salted the pot, so the final pinch is the only one that matters. Rest the soup 5 minutes off the heat so the potato settles into the broth, then serve with rye bread and mustard on the side.
Chef Tips
- •Buy floury potatoes, not waxy ones. The whole soup depends on the starch released by the potato; waxy potatoes give you chunks in broth, not Kartoffelsuppe.
- •Use real stock or a quick stock from leek tops, parsley stems, carrot peelings, and a smoked rind. Powder gives salt before it gives flavour. Nicht aus dem Glas.
- •Add the Würstchen at the end and don't boil them. A Frankfurter Würstchen should be warmed, not punished.
- •The vinegar is not there to make the soup sour. It wakes up the celeriac, leek, and potato after a long simmer, the way a good Hessian table knows what apple can do.
Advance Preparation
- •Make the soup base up to 2 days ahead without the Würstchen and parsley leaves. Reheat gently, loosen with stock or water, then add the sausages at the end so they stay firm.
- •The vegetables can be chopped the morning of cooking and kept covered in the refrigerator. Cut the potatoes close to cooking time so their starch stays in the soup.
- •Leftovers thicken overnight. Warm them slowly with a splash of water or stock and taste again for salt only after the soup is hot.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 820g)
Calories
610 calories
Total Fat
28 g
Saturated Fat
9 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
19 g
Cholesterol
45 mg
Sodium
1450 mg
Total Carbohydrates
72 g
Dietary Fiber
10 g
Sugars
9 g
Protein
17 g
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