
Chef Makoa
Butter Mochi (Hawaiʻi Local Mochiko Coconut Cake)
A chewy, golden Hawaiʻi Local square from mochiko, butter, and coconut milk, baked in one pan until the edges pull crisp and the middle stays tender.
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Snow-fine Hawaiian shave ice from the neighborhood counter, striped with guava, lilikoi, and li hing, with azuki, mochi, and a condensed milk snow cap.
The shave-ice window was one of the first places I understood Hawaiʻi Local food as kinship. Not blood only. The kine kinship that forms when somebody's aunty passes a paper cone over the counter on Oʻahu, snow piled high, your slippers dusty, your fingers already sticky, and nobody asks which people you come from before they feed you.
This is Hawaiʻi's dish, but it is Hawaiʻi Local, not Kanaka Maoli deep food from the loʻi, the irrigated taro patch. The old root foods, poi and paʻiʻai, laulau and ʻulu, still sit in their own deep place. Shave ice came through Japanese kakigōri, then the plantation camps and neighborhood stores did what Hawaiʻi does: guava from the yard, lilikoi from the fence, Chinese li hing mui, Japanese azuki and mochi, condensed milk over the top. Keeper, not gatekeeper. Eat what you have, and make it good.
Across the Triangle, the cousins keep their sweets by name: Tongan faikakai, dumplings in coconut syrup; Sāmoan panikeke, round fritters; Cook Islands poke, a fruit pudding, not Hawaiian raw fish; Tahitian poʻe, fruit pudding with coconut. Shave ice is not those, and they are not shave ice. Same wide table, different hands, one ocean with room for all of it.
The method is simple, but no be sloppy. The ice has to shave fine, like snow, so the syrups sink in instead of sliding off. Put the azuki and mochi below, cap it with condensed milk, serve it before the sun takes it back. Comfort food. Picnic food. Hawaiʻi in a paper cone, real and everyday.
Shave ice in Hawaiʻi grew from Japanese kakigōri, brought by Japanese immigrants who arrived for sugar work beginning with the Gannenmono in 1868 and in larger numbers after 1885. In plantation camps and later neighborhood stores, that Japanese ice met Hawaiʻi Local pantries: Chinese li hing mui, Japanese azuki and mochi, canned condensed milk, and island fruit syrups like guava and lilikoi. It is not the food of the loʻi; it is the Local register, the everyday table made by Portuguese, Japanese, Okinawan, Chinese, Filipino, Native Hawaiian, and other island hands living side by side.
Quantity
4
about 3 to 4 pounds total, frozen solid
Quantity
2 1/2 cups
divided
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
divided
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1 cup
strained if seedy
Quantity
2 tablespoons
plus more for dusting
Quantity
2 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
divided
Quantity
1 cup
chilled
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
cut bite-size
Quantity
1 pint
Quantity
1/2 to 3/4 cup
for snow cap
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| machine-sized ice blocks made from filtered waterabout 3 to 4 pounds total, frozen solid | 4 |
| cane sugardivided | 2 1/2 cups |
| waterdivided | 1 1/2 cups |
| guava nectar or thawed guava puree | 1 cup |
| lilikoi pulp or juicestrained if seedy | 1 cup |
| li hing mui powderplus more for dusting | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh lime juicedivided | 2 tablespoons |
| fine sea saltdivided | 1/4 teaspoon |
| sweetened azuki beanschilled | 1 cup |
| soft mochi pieces or chichi dangocut bite-size | 1 1/2 cups |
| vanilla, coconut, or macadamia nut ice cream (optional) | 1 pint |
| sweetened condensed milkfor snow cap | 1/2 to 3/4 cup |
Fill the molds for your shave-ice machine with filtered water and freeze them solid, at least 8 hours or overnight. Before shaving, let each block sit 5 minutes at room temperature so the blade catches clean and makes soft flakes instead of hard chips.
In a small saucepan, combine the guava nectar, 3/4 cup sugar, 1/4 cup water, 1 tablespoon lime juice, and a small pinch of salt. Warm over medium heat just until the sugar dissolves and the syrup turns glossy and pourable, 3 to 4 minutes. Don't cook it down like jam. Cool, then bottle.
In the same pan, combine the lilikoi pulp or juice, 3/4 cup sugar, 1/4 cup water, and a small pinch of salt. Warm gently until the sugar melts and the syrup tastes bright, tart, and rounded. Cool, then bottle.
Combine 1 cup water and 1 cup sugar in the pan and simmer until clear. Whisk in the li hing mui powder, the remaining 1 tablespoon lime juice, and a small pinch of salt. Taste before adding more powder, because li hing brings sweet, sour, salty, and plum all at once. Cool and strain if grainy.
Put a spoonful of chilled azuki beans in the bottom of each paper cone or cup. Add a small scoop of ice cream if you're using it, then tuck in some mochi pieces. That's the good surprise below, the part you find after the syrup has worked all the way down.
Shave the ice directly over each cup if your machine allows it, turning the cup so the snow piles evenly. Shape it with a light hand into a tall dome. Don't press it tight. Mainland snow cones are hard pellets. Hawaiʻi shave ice should be fine enough that syrup drinks into it.
Pour guava, lilikoi, and li hing syrups over the dome in stripes, giving the first pour a moment to sink before adding a little more. Spoon or squeeze condensed milk over the top for the snow cap, then dust with a pinch of li hing mui powder if you like.
Hand it over with a spoon and let people eat while the ice is still soft and bright. Shave ice waits for nobody. The sun will take back what belongs to it, yeah?
1 serving (about 315g)
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