Gun-mandu (Pan-Fried Korean Dumplings)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •12-inch lidded nonstick skillet or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet
• •Large mixing bowl
• •Clean kitchen towels for squeezing vegetables and pressing tofu
• •Thin spatula
• •Sheet pan for holding or freezing folded dumplings

Instructions

1. 1

   Dry the vegetables

   Put the chopped napa cabbage in a bowl with 1 teaspoon fine sea salt and mix well. Let it stand 15 minutes, then squeeze it hard in a clean towel until no more liquid runs out. Wrap the tofu in another towel and press it under a plate for the same 15 minutes. Blanch the mung bean sprouts in boiling water for 1 minute, drain, cool, squeeze dry, and chop them into 1/2-inch pieces. Dry filling is not fussiness. It is the difference between a dumpling that seals and one that leaks.

   After squeezing, the cabbage should weigh about 150g. If it is much heavier, squeeze again. That extra water will come out in the pan.
2. 2

   Cook the noodles

   Boil the dangmyeon for 5 to 6 minutes, until flexible and clear. Rinse briefly under cold water, drain well, and chop into 1/2-inch lengths. Use only 40g dried noodles here. They catch the juices and give chew, but they should not turn the filling into a noodle pile.

3. 3

   Mix the filling

   In a large bowl, combine the pork, pressed tofu, squeezed cabbage, chopped sprouts, chopped noodles, garlic chives, scallions, beaten egg, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon sesame oil, garlic, ginger, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and black pepper. Mix with your hand in one direction for 2 minutes, until the pork turns tacky and the filling holds together. This binds the filling so it slices cleanly under your teeth instead of crumbling out of the wrapper.

   Cook a teaspoon of filling in a small pan and taste it before folding the dumplings. It should taste fully seasoned but not salty, because the wrapper and dipping sauce still have to speak. Add up to 1/4 teaspoon more salt only if it tastes flat.
4. 4

   Fold the mandu

   Keep the wrappers covered with a barely damp towel so they do not dry out. Place 1 level tablespoon, about 20 to 22g, of filling in the center of each wrapper. Wet the edge lightly with water, fold into a half-moon, press out any trapped air, and pinch the seam closed. Pleat if you like, but leave one flat side. Gun-mandu needs a belly to brown.

5. 5

   Mix the sauce

   Stir together 3 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon rice vinegar, 1 tablespoon water, 1 teaspoon sesame oil, the gochugaru if using, and the sliced scallion. The water is there for balance. Straight soy sauce is too sharp and makes you forget the filling.

6. 6

   Brown the bottoms

   Set a 12-inch lidded nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon neutral oil and arrange 10 to 12 dumplings flat side down with a little space between them. Cook 2 to 3 minutes, until the bottoms are light golden brown. Do not move them too early; they release when the crust has begun.

7. 7

   Add water and cover

   Pour 1/3 cup water into the pan and cover immediately. Cook fresh dumplings 5 to 6 minutes, until the wrappers look translucent and the pork filling reaches 160°F, 71°C, in the center. For frozen dumplings, use 1/2 cup water and cook 8 to 10 minutes. The water cooks the top and center while the browned bottom stays waiting underneath.

8. 8

   Crisp again

   Remove the lid and let the remaining water boil away. When the pan returns to a clear sizzle, cook 2 to 3 minutes more, until the bottoms are deep amber and crisp. If the pan looks dry, trickle in 1 teaspoon more oil around the edge. This second crisping is the step people rush, and it is the step everyone remembers.

9. 9

   Serve browned side up

   Lift the dumplings with a thin spatula and turn them browned side up on the plate, so the crisp side does not soften against the dish. Serve right away with the dipping sauce, kimchi, and something cold to drink. Repeat with the remaining dumplings, wiping out any scorched bits between batches.

Chef Tips

• •Buy Korean mandu-pi if you can. Japanese gyoza wrappers also work, but very thin square wonton skins tear easily and cook up brittle rather than chewy.
• •The safe shortcut is store-bought wrappers, not wet filling. 시대가 바뀌면 음식도 바뀌어야 해요. When times change, food must change too. Let the wrapper factory help you, then do the squeezing, seasoning, and browning properly.
• •Do not overfill. One level tablespoon looks modest, but a dumpling needs room for the filling to cook and for the seam to seal. A swollen dumpling that opens in the pan is not generous, it is untidy.
• •No garlic chives in your market today? Use 50g scallions and 25g finely chopped onion instead. It will taste a little sweeter and less grassy, but the dish still holds.
• •For a weeknight plate, serve these with kimchi and rice. For a late table or game day, put them beside tteokbokki, pickled radish, and cold beer or makgeolli.

Advance Preparation

• •The filling can be mixed up to 1 day ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator, but fold the dumplings the same day if you want the cleanest wrapper texture.
• •Folded uncooked dumplings can be frozen on a parchment-lined sheet pan until firm, then packed into a freezer bag for up to 2 months. Cook from frozen without thawing, using 1/2 cup water per batch and checking that the pork reaches 160°F, 71°C.
• •Cooked leftovers keep 3 days in the refrigerator. Reheat them in a lightly oiled skillet over medium heat, covered for 2 minutes to warm through, then uncovered until the bottoms crisp again.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 375g)