
Chef Lupita
Enchiladas Mineras de Guanajuato
Guanajuato's mining-city enchiladas are corn tortillas dipped in guajillo salsa, fried in manteca, filled with queso fresco, and served with papa, zanahoria, chicken, and chiles en escabeche.
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Querétaro's market torta of bolillo soaked in jitomate and chile guajillo salsa, fried until the crust goes red and crisp, then packed with a folded enchilada queretana.
Querétaro, in the Bajío, is where this guajolote lives: in the markets of Santiago de Querétaro, at counters where the bolillos are stacked in paper bags and the salsa stains the cook's fingers red by midmorning. Mercado de La Cruz, Mercado Escobedo, those are the places that teach this food better than any restaurant menu.
The structure is pure Bajío logic. Wheat bolillo on the outside, corn tortilla on the inside. The bolillo gets dipped in salsa de jitomate y chile guajillo, fried in manteca de cerdo until the crust turns red and crisp, then split open and filled with a folded enchilada queretana. Not a flour tortilla. Not an American sub roll. A bolillo with a hard crust and white crumb, the kind that can take salsa and lard without giving up.
I learned this version from a señora who kept three things moving at once: the cazuela of salsa, the skillet of papas y zanahorias, and the tray of chicken pieces. She did not shred the chicken. She gave each plate its pieza, whole, because enchiladas queretanas are served with bone-in chicken, not hidden meat. The guajolote carries the enchilada inside the bread. The chicken stands beside it. La cocina no es decoración, es trabajo.
This is not food from a single Mexico. This is Querétaro speaking in bolillo, guajillo, jitomate, lard, and a folded tortilla. Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
The word guajolote comes from the Nahuatl huexolotl, meaning turkey, but in Querétaro and neighboring Hidalgo it also names a large red bolillo stuffed as a market antojito. The dish depends on two colonial-era ingredients that settled deeply into central Mexico: wheat bread, introduced by the Spanish in the 16th century, and pork lard, which became the frying fat of market cooking. Querétaro's version is tied to enchiladas queretanas, a jitomate and chile guajillo sauced plate served with a whole bone-in chicken piece, so the sandwich carries the folded enchilada while the chicken remains a pieza.
Quantity
4
drumsticks or split thighs
Quantity
5 cups
Quantity
1/2 medium
Quantity
3
peeled
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons, plus more to taste
Quantity
10
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
5
halved
Quantity
1/4 medium
Quantity
2
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2 cups, plus more as needed
Quantity
3/4 cup, divided, plus more if needed
Quantity
2 medium
peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
Quantity
2 medium
peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
Quantity
4
Quantity
3/4 cup
crumbled
Quantity
1/4 cup
finely chopped
Quantity
4
preferably day-old
Quantity
1 cup
thinly sliced
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
crumbled
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small bone-in chicken piecesdrumsticks or split thighs | 4 |
| water | 5 cups |
| white onion | 1/2 medium |
| garlic clovespeeled | 3 |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| kosher salt | 1 1/2 teaspoons, plus more to taste |
| dried chile guajillostemmed and seeded | 10 |
| ripe Roma tomatoes (jitomates guaje)halved | 5 |
| white onion for salsa | 1/4 medium |
| garlic cloves for salsa | 2 |
| dried Mexican oregano | 1/2 teaspoon |
| reserved chicken broth | 2 cups, plus more as needed |
| pork lard (manteca de cerdo) | 3/4 cup, divided, plus more if needed |
| white potatoespeeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice | 2 medium |
| carrotspeeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice | 2 medium |
| day-old corn tortillas | 4 |
| queso frescocrumbled | 3/4 cup |
| white onionfinely chopped | 1/4 cup |
| crusty bolillospreferably day-old | 4 |
| romaine lettucethinly sliced | 1 cup |
| Mexican crema | 1/3 cup |
| queso fresco for finishingcrumbled | 1/2 cup |
| chiles en escabeche (optional) | for serving |
Put the chicken pieces in a pot with the water, half onion, 3 garlic cloves, bay leaf, and salt. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook 25 to 30 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and the broth tastes seasoned. Skim the first foam that rises. Pull the chicken pieces out whole and reserve them. Do not shred them. That is not enchilada queretana.
Strain the broth and return 2 cups to the pot. Add the diced potatoes and carrots. Simmer 7 to 9 minutes, just until tender but not falling apart. Drain and let them dry on a plate. They need to fry later, and wet vegetables splatter like they are offended.
Heat a dry comal over medium. Toast the chile guajillo 15 to 20 seconds per side, just until the skins darken slightly and smell raisiny. Do not let them blacken. Put the toasted chiles in a bowl and cover with hot water for 15 minutes. Hot, not boiling. Boiling water pulls bitterness from the skins.
On the same comal, roast the tomatoes, quarter onion, and 2 garlic cloves until the tomato skins blister and the onion has browned edges. Drain the softened chiles and blend them with the roasted tomatoes, onion, garlic, Mexican oregano, 1 cup reserved chicken broth, and a pinch of salt. Blend until completely smooth, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve. The salsa should be red-orange, smooth, and loose enough to coat bread without turning it to paste.
Melt 2 tablespoons of the lard in a clay cazuela or heavy skillet over medium heat. Pour in the strained salsa. It will sputter, so stand back and let the cazuela do its work. Cook 10 to 12 minutes, stirring often, until the color deepens and the salsa coats the back of a spoon. Add more chicken broth if it tightens too much. This is salsa de jitomate y guajillo, not a bottled red sauce.
In a wide skillet, melt 2 more tablespoons of lard. Brown the whole chicken pieces on both sides until the skin and edges take color. Move them to a plate. Add the drained potatoes and carrots to the same fat and fry 5 to 6 minutes, turning gently, until the corners go golden. Spoon a little salsa over them so they take the red color.
Mix the 3/4 cup queso fresco with the chopped white onion. Warm the corn tortillas on the comal so they bend without cracking. Dip one tortilla into the guajillo-tomato salsa, lay it in a thin film of lard, and fry about 20 seconds per side. Fill with the queso fresco mixture and fold in half. Repeat with the remaining tortillas. These are folded enchiladas, not a baked casserole. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Dip each whole bolillo quickly in the warm salsa, turning once so the crust stains red. Do not drown it. Fry the bolillos in the remaining lard, 1 to 2 minutes per side, until the outside is glossy, red, and crisp at the edges. The crumb should still have structure. A soft American sub roll will collapse here. Use bolillo or do not make guajolote.
Split each fried bolillo lengthwise, leaving a hinge if you can. Tuck one folded enchilada queretana inside. Add a spoonful of papa y zanahoria, a little romaine, Mexican crema, and crumbled queso fresco. Serve each guajolote with one whole bone-in chicken piece alongside and chiles en escabeche in a small barro dish. The chicken is a pieza, not a shredded filling. Así se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 540g)
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