
Chef Dimitra
Arkatena Omodous (Αρκατένα Ομόδους)
Omodos arkatena are Cypriot chickpea-leavened rusks, pale inside and sesame-studded, baked once as little rings and again until they crack clean under the tooth and keep beautifully.
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Gianniotiki frantzola is Ioannina's everyday white loaf: long, lean, and firm enough for cheese, olives, and soup, with a crust that crackles because the oven begins wet and hot.
Gianniotiki frantzola is Ioannina's long white loaf, the everyday bread of Epirus with a crisp crust and a firm, close crumb. It isn't a festival bread. It is the loaf that waits beside feta, olives, bean soup, fried eggs, whatever the table has that day. The region is the dish's surname, and here the name says Giannena.
One thing decides it: the hot oven starts with water. Slide the shaped loaf into strong heat and pour boiling water into a preheated tray below it. For those first minutes the crust stays flexible, the loaf opens cleanly along the slash, and then the surface dries crisp enough to sing as it cools. No butter, no milk, no sweet dough. Flour, water, yeast, salt, and patience.
I write this kind of bread down with particular care because everyone thinks everyday food will remember itself. It doesn't. Your grandmother cooked by eye because she'd made it a thousand times. Here are the numbers until you have.
Gianniotiki means "from Giannena," the everyday Greek name for Ioannina, capital of Epirus. In Greek bread language a frantzola is the long loaf, set apart from the round karveli of village ovens; in Ioannina it belonged to the city's bakery table, bought for school lunches, soups, cheese, and olives. Its identity is plain white dough, firm crumb, and a crisp crust from the hot oven's first wet minutes, not enrichment or decoration.
Quantity
700g
plus 10g for dusting
Quantity
455ml
about 38°C
Quantity
7g
Quantity
14g
Quantity
10ml
for the bowl and hands
Quantity
250ml
for the oven tray
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| strong white bread flour (alevri skliro)plus 10g for dusting | 700g |
| lukewarm waterabout 38°C | 455ml |
| instant dry yeast | 7g |
| fine sea salt | 14g |
| extra virgin olive oilfor the bowl and hands | 10ml |
| boiling waterfor the oven tray | 250ml |
Put the flour, yeast, and salt in a large bowl and stir them together. Add the lukewarm water and mix with your hand or a wooden spoon until no dry flour remains. Cover the bowl and let it sit for 15 minutes, just long enough for the flour to drink the water and soften.
Lightly oil your hands and the work surface. Knead the dough for 8 to 10 minutes, pushing it away and folding it back, until it feels smooth, elastic, and only a little tacky. Don't bury it in extra flour. A dry dough gives you a tight, dull loaf.
Rub the bowl with a little olive oil, return the dough to it, and cover it. Leave it at warm room temperature for 75 to 90 minutes, until it has roughly doubled and looks domed. Time is useful, but the dough tells the truth.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and divide it into 2 equal pieces. Pat each piece into a rectangle, then roll it tightly from the long side into a loaf about 32 to 35cm long. Pinch the seam closed, taper the ends slightly, and set the loaves seam-side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
Cover the loaves with a clean cloth and let them rise for 35 to 45 minutes, until puffy and a fingertip pressed into the dough leaves a slow dent. Meanwhile heat the oven to 240°C with a shallow metal tray on the lowest rack. Let that tray get properly hot.
Slash each loaf once down the length, about 1cm deep. Put the baking sheet on the middle rack, then carefully pour the boiling water into the hot tray below and close the oven at once. Bake for 10 minutes at 240°C, lower the heat to 210°C, and bake 22 to 25 minutes more, until the crust is deep gold and the bottoms sound hollow when tapped. The water tray is the method that decides this loaf: it keeps the surface from setting too soon, so the bread opens before the crust dries crisp.
Move the loaves to a wire rack and cool at least 45 minutes before cutting. The crumb finishes setting as it cools. Slice too early and it gums under the knife, and after all that patience, this would be foolish.
1 serving (about 50g)
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