Garganelli

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large wooden board or clean work surface
• •Hand-crank pasta machine
• •Pettine (garganelli comb/board)
• •Wooden dowel or stick (about 5mm diameter)
• •Sharp knife or pastry wheel
• •Baking sheets or trays lined with parchment
• •Plastic wrap

Instructions

1. 1

   Create the flour well

   Mound the flour on a large wooden board or clean work surface. Create a wide well in the center, like a volcano crater with thick walls. The walls must be substantial enough to contain the eggs. Crack the eggs into the center. Add the olive oil and salt to the eggs.

2. 2

   Incorporate the eggs

   Using a fork, beat the eggs gently in the center of the well, gradually pulling flour from the inner walls. Work slowly and deliberately. If you break the walls too quickly, the eggs will escape across your counter and you will start over. Continue until you have a shaggy mass that the fork can no longer manage.

   Some flour will remain on the board. This is correct. Scrape it aside but do not force all of it into the dough. You will use it during kneading if needed.
3. 3

   Knead the dough

   Push the dough away from you with the heel of your hand, fold it back over itself, rotate it a quarter turn, and repeat. Continue for 8 to 10 minutes. The dough should become smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky but not sticky. Press your finger into it: the indentation should spring back slowly. If it feels dry, wet your hands. If too sticky, dust with flour sparingly.

   The finished dough should feel like your earlobe when pressed. This comparison has been passed down through generations of Italian home cooks. It remains the most accurate description.
4. 4

   Rest the dough

   Wrap the dough tightly in plastic wrap. Let it rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. This relaxes the gluten and makes rolling possible. Do not skip this step. Do not shorten it. The dough knows what it needs.

5. 5

   Roll the dough

   Cut the rested dough into four pieces. Keep three wrapped while you work with one. Flatten the piece with your palm into a rough rectangle. Pass it through the pasta machine at the widest setting. Fold it in thirds like a letter. Pass it through again. Repeat this folding and rolling three times. This develops the gluten structure.

   A hand-crank pasta machine transforms this from an expert skill into a learnable one. The sfogline of Bologna roll by hand; home cooks can achieve excellent results with a machine. There is no shame in using the proper tool.
6. 6

   Thin the sheets

   Without folding, pass the dough through progressively narrower settings, one step at a time. For garganelli, roll to the second-thinnest setting on your machine. The sheet should be thin enough to see your hand through it when held to the light, but not so thin that it tears. Lay the finished sheet on a lightly floured surface.

7. 7

   Cut into squares

   Using a sharp knife or pastry wheel, cut the pasta sheet into squares approximately 5 centimeters on each side. Precision matters here. Uneven squares create uneven pasta. Work quickly once the sheets are rolled; fresh pasta dries and becomes difficult to shape within minutes.

8. 8

   Shape the garganelli

   Position a pasta square on the garganelli comb with one corner pointing toward you. Place the wooden stick along the corner nearest you. Roll the stick away from you, pressing firmly so the pasta wraps around it and the comb ridges imprint into the surface. The opposite corner will seal itself to the tube. Slide the finished garganello off the stick onto a semolina-dusted tray.

   The pressure must be firm and even. Too light, and the ridges will not form. Too hard, and the pasta tears. Your first few will be imperfect. This is how learning works.
9. 9

   Continue shaping

   Work through all the squares, then roll and cut the remaining dough portions. Keep finished garganelli in a single layer on semolina-dusted trays or parchment. They can touch but should not stack. If making ahead, let them dry at room temperature for one hour, turning once.

10. 10

    Cook the garganelli

    Bring abundant salted water to a vigorous boil. The water should taste like the sea. Add the garganelli and stir gently to prevent sticking. Fresh garganelli cook in 2 to 3 minutes. They are done when they float and taste tender with slight resistance at the center. Drain, reserving pasta water, and sauce immediately.

Chef Tips

• •A garganelli comb can be improvised with a new wooden butter paddle or a gnocchi board, though the ridges will be less defined. The traditional pettine creates deeper grooves. It costs little and lasts forever. Buy one.
• •If the pasta sticks to the comb, dust it lightly with semolina, not tipo 00. Semolina's coarser texture prevents sticking without making the pasta gummy.
• •Garganelli pair traditionally with ragù alla romagnola, which uses less tomato than its Bolognese cousin, or with prosciutto and cream. The ridges demand sauce with body.
• •Work in a cool kitchen if possible. Heat makes the dough sticky and difficult to shape. If your kitchen is warm, shape smaller batches while keeping the rest of the dough wrapped.

Advance Preparation

• •Fresh garganelli can be made several hours ahead and left to dry at room temperature, uncovered, on semolina-dusted trays. They will hold their shape better when cooked.
• •Shaped garganelli freeze well for up to one month. Freeze in a single layer on a tray, then transfer to bags. Cook directly from frozen, adding one minute to the cooking time.
• •The dough can be made and rested up to 24 hours ahead, wrapped tightly and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before rolling.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 230g)