
Chef Graziella
Arancini alla Siciliana
Golden fried rice balls from Sicily, where Arab culinary influence meets Italian home cooking. The saffron-perfumed rice conceals a heart of slow-simmered ragù and sweet peas.
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Cremini mushrooms filled with nothing more than their own stems, good bread, aged Parmigiano-Reggiano, and fresh parsley. The restraint is the point.
Stuffed mushrooms have been ruined by American appetizer culture. Cream cheese. Crab meat. Bacon bits. The mushroom becomes a vehicle for everything except itself. This is not that.
In Emilia-Romagna, where Parmigiano-Reggiano has been made for eight centuries, the approach is opposite. The mushroom is the star. You remove the stems, chop them fine, and return them to the caps with breadcrumbs from good bread and enough aged cheese to bind it together. A whisper of garlic, not a shout. Parsley for brightness. That is all.
What you keep out is as significant as what you put in. There is no cream. No mozzarella stretching in strings. No spices competing for attention. When your Parmigiano is properly aged, when your mushrooms smell of earth and forest, you do not need to add anything else. You need to get out of their way.
Stuffed vegetables appear throughout Italian regional cooking, but the pairing with Parmigiano-Reggiano places this firmly in Emilia-Romagna, where the cheese has been produced since the Middle Ages. Autumn mushroom foraging remains a serious pursuit in the Apennine foothills, and simple preparations like this one allow the funghi to speak for themselves.
Quantity
24 (about 1 1/2 pounds)
each about 2 inches in diameter
Quantity
1/4 cup, plus more for drizzling
Quantity
1 small clove
minced to a paste
Quantity
1/2 cup
from good bread
Quantity
3/4 cup (about 2 ounces)
freshly grated
Quantity
3 tablespoons
chopped fine
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cremini mushroomseach about 2 inches in diameter | 24 (about 1 1/2 pounds) |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1/4 cup, plus more for drizzling |
| garlicminced to a paste | 1 small clove |
| fine dry breadcrumbsfrom good bread | 1/2 cup |
| Parmigiano-Reggianofreshly grated | 3/4 cup (about 2 ounces) |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleychopped fine | 3 tablespoons |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp paper towel. Do not wash them under running water. Mushrooms are sponges. They absorb water and become soggy, impossible to brown, impossible to stuff properly. Twist out the stems gently and set the caps aside, gill side up. Trim the dry ends from the stems and discard them. Chop the remaining stems very fine.
Heat two tablespoons of the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the chopped stems and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the moisture has evaporated and the stems begin to brown lightly, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic paste and stir for 30 seconds, until fragrant. The garlic must not color. Remove from heat and let cool for five minutes.
Transfer the cooled stems to a bowl. Add the breadcrumbs, half of the Parmigiano-Reggiano, and the parsley. Drizzle with the remaining two tablespoons of olive oil. Mix thoroughly. The filling should hold together when pressed but not be wet. Season with salt and pepper. Taste it. Adjust. The filling should taste good on its own before it ever sees a mushroom cap.
Heat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Lightly oil a baking dish large enough to hold all the mushrooms in a single layer. Season the inside of each cap with a small pinch of salt. Mound the filling into each cap, pressing gently to compact it. The filling should dome slightly above the rim. Arrange the stuffed mushrooms in the dish, filling side up.
Scatter the remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano over the tops of the mushrooms. Drizzle lightly with olive oil. Bake until the mushroom caps are tender when pierced with a knife, the filling is heated through, and the cheese on top is golden and beginning to crisp, 20 to 25 minutes. The mushrooms will release some liquid into the pan. This is correct.
Remove from the oven and let rest for five minutes. The mushrooms are too hot to eat immediately and need this time for the juices to settle. Transfer to a serving platter or serve directly from the baking dish. These are meant to be eaten warm, not hot, which allows the flavors to express themselves fully.
1 serving (about 145g)
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