Fritole Veneziane

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy 4-quart pot or Dutch oven for frying
• •Deep-fry or candy thermometer
• •Slotted spoon or spider
• •Wire cooling rack

Instructions

1. 1

   Soak the raisins

   Place the raisins in a small bowl and pour the grappa over them. Let them soak for at least one hour, or overnight if you think ahead. The raisins should become plump and saturated. Do not skip this step or shorten it. Dry raisins in fried dough are unpleasant little pebbles.

   Rum may substitute for grappa, though this is a concession to availability rather than tradition. Grappa is Venetian. Use it if you can find it.
2. 2

   Proof the yeast

   In a small bowl, combine the warm water and yeast. The water should feel comfortable on your wrist, like a warm bath. Let stand until the yeast blooms and becomes foamy, about 5 minutes. If nothing happens, your yeast is dead. Discard it and begin again with fresh yeast.

3. 3

   Make the batter

   In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt. Make a well in the center. Add the eggs, milk, melted butter, lemon zest, and the proofed yeast mixture. Stir with a wooden spoon until a thick, sticky batter forms. It should be too wet to knead but too thick to pour. This is correct. The texture is somewhere between pancake batter and bread dough.

4. 4

   Let the batter rise

   Cover the bowl with a clean kitchen towel or plastic wrap. Set it in a warm place away from drafts. Let rise until doubled in volume, about one and a half hours. The surface should be bubbly and the batter should smell pleasantly yeasty.

   If your kitchen is cold, place the bowl in an unlit oven with just the light on. The bulb provides gentle warmth. Or set it near a radiator, but not touching.
5. 5

   Add the raisins and pine nuts

   Drain the raisins, reserving any remaining grappa. Add the plumped raisins and the pine nuts to the risen batter. Fold gently to distribute them evenly without deflating the batter completely. A few folds are sufficient. If grappa remains in the bowl, add that too. Nothing should be wasted.

6. 6

   Heat the oil

   Pour the oil into a heavy, deep pot to a depth of at least 3 inches. Heat over medium heat until the oil reaches 350°F on a deep-fry thermometer. This temperature is critical. Too cool and the fritole absorb oil and become greasy. Too hot and the outside burns before the inside cooks. Maintain this temperature throughout frying, adjusting the flame as needed.

7. 7

   Fry the fritole

   Using two teaspoons (one to scoop, one to push), drop rounded spoonfuls of batter into the hot oil. Work in batches of 5 or 6, never crowding the pot. The fritole will sink briefly, then rise to the surface and begin to turn themselves as they puff. Fry until deep golden brown on all sides, turning once or twice with a slotted spoon, about 3 to 4 minutes total.

   The batter is sticky. Dip your spoons in water between batches to help release it cleanly. A small ice cream scoop also works, though traditional fritoleri used only their hands and experience.
8. 8

   Drain and dust

   Transfer the fried fritole to a wire rack set over a sheet pan, or to a plate lined with paper towels. Let them drain for one minute, no longer. While still warm, dust generously with confectioners' sugar. The sugar should cling to the surface and begin to dissolve slightly from the residual heat. Serve immediately.

Chef Tips

• •Fritole are best eaten within an hour of frying. They do not keep well. Plan accordingly and fry close to serving time.
• •The batter can be made through the first rise, then refrigerated overnight. The cold slows fermentation. Bring it back to room temperature before adding raisins and frying.
• •Some Venetian recipes include a splash of rum in the batter itself. This is acceptable. What is not acceptable is cinnamon, vanilla extract, or any other flavoring that masks the clean taste of grappa and citrus.
• •Pine nuts burn easily. Toast them lightly in a dry pan before adding to the batter only if you prefer a more pronounced flavor. Raw pine nuts are traditional.

Advance Preparation

• •Soak raisins in grappa up to 24 hours ahead. They only improve with time.
• •The batter can be prepared through the first rise, covered tightly, and refrigerated for up to 12 hours. Allow it to come to room temperature before proceeding.
• •Fritole cannot be made ahead. They must be fried and served immediately. This is not negotiable.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 31g)