
Chef Klaus
Allgäuer Krautkrapfen
The Allgäu pan dish that makes a meal from noodle dough, winter kraut, onion, and fat: brown the cut sides first, then cook gently so the rolls hold.
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The coast's thrifty fish cake, built from yesterday's cooked cod or haddock, bound lightly with soaked roll, and fried just long enough to crisp the outside.
Fischfrikadellen belong to the northern table, the coast kitchens of Hamburg, Schleswig-Holstein, Lower Saxony, and Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, where yesterday's cooked fish becomes tonight's supper. This is weeknight food, market-stall food, and Friday food when meat stays off the plate. Weggeworfen wird nichts. A good piece of fish is eaten twice if you know how to bind it.
The regions don't agree on the binder. Along the coast I use soaked Brötchen, a white roll, squeezed nearly dry so it holds moisture without turning the fish heavy. Some inland cooks use mashed potato, some add smoked fish for depth, and in Mecklenburg you'll see more dill. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. The south has its meat Frikadellen and its river fish, but this plate speaks with a salt wind.
The one technique that decides it is the mixing. Flake the cooked fish by hand and fold it with the binder until it just holds. Mash it into paste and you've made a fish puck. Leave it too loose and it falls apart in the pan. Chill the shaped cakes before frying because cold fat firms the mixture and gives the crust time to set before the inside breaks.
Fry them in a thin film of butter and oil, not a deep bath. Runter mit der Temperatur if the crumbs darken before the centre warms through. Serve with mustard, cucumber salad, or potatoes, and don't hide a tired fish cake under jarred sauce. Nicht aus dem Glas.
Fischfrikadellen grew out of the North Sea and Baltic fish trade that fed Hamburg, Bremen, Kiel, and the Hanseatic towns, where cod, haddock, herring, and later saithe moved quickly from harbour to home kitchens. The Christian fasting calendar helped keep fish cookery central in northern Germany, since meatless Fridays and Lent made fish a regular table habit rather than a special treat. The dish also shows the old household economy clearly: cooked fish too good to waste was stretched with bread, egg, and onion into a second meal.
Quantity
500g
cooled and flaked
Quantity
1 roll or 60g
Quantity
100ml
Quantity
1
finely minced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for softening the onion
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
Quantity
1 teaspoon
finely grated
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
60g
for coating
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for frying
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cooked white fish, such as cod, haddock, pollock, or saithecooled and flaked | 500g |
| stale white Brötchen or stale white bread | 1 roll or 60g |
| milk | 100ml |
| small onionfinely minced | 1 |
| butterfor softening the onion | 1 tablespoon |
| large egg | 1 |
| German medium-hot mustard | 1 tablespoon |
| dill or flat-leaf parsleychopped | 1 tablespoon |
| lemon zestfinely grated | 1 teaspoon |
| lemon juice | 1 tablespoon |
| fine salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| fine breadcrumbsfor coating | 60g |
| neutral oil | 2 tablespoons |
| butterfor frying | 1 tablespoon |
Tear the stale Brötchen into a bowl and pour over the milk. Leave it 10 minutes, then squeeze it hard in your fist until damp, not wet. The bread is there to hold moisture inside the fish cake; leave it dripping and the mixture turns slack in the pan.
Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a small pan and cook the minced onion over medium-low heat until soft and pale, about 5 minutes. Don't brown it. Raw onion stays sharp inside a quick-fried fish cake, while browned onion pulls the flavour toward meat Frikadellen. This is fish. Let it taste like fish.
Check the cooked fish carefully for bones, then flake it with your fingers into pieces about the size of small coins. Keep some shape. If you mash the fish fine, the cakes fry dense instead of tender, and no mustard will save that.
Fold the fish with the squeezed roll, softened onion, egg, mustard, herbs, lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, and pepper until the mixture just holds together. Press a spoonful in your palm. If it cracks badly, add a teaspoon of milk; if it slumps, add a spoon of breadcrumbs. Erst verstehen, dann kochen.
Shape 8 cakes, each about 2cm thick, and coat them lightly in the fine breadcrumbs. Set them on a plate and chill 30 minutes. Cold firms the egg and bread around the fish, so the crust can set before the inside tries to come apart.
Heat the oil and butter in a wide skillet over medium heat. Fry the cakes 3 to 4 minutes per side, turning once, until the crust is deep golden and crisp at the edges. If the crumbs darken too fast, runter mit der Temperatur. The fish is already cooked; you're setting the binder and building the crust, not punishing it.
Drain the Fischfrikadellen briefly on paper and serve with boiled potatoes, cucumber salad, mustard, or a spoon of quark with herbs. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss: taste one hot, then add the final pinch of salt only if it needs it. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
1 serving (about 215g)
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