
Chef Isabel
Fabada Asturiana
Fabada Asturiana is Asturias in a pot: fat fabes de la granja, cured compango, and a slow tremble on the stove until the beans turn creamy and the broth shines.
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Asturias keeps this stew plain and deep: fabes de la granja, pig's trotters, salted ear, and a low tremble until the pork gives its gelatin and the broth turns silky.
Fabes con uñes de gochu is Asturian, not just a bean stew with pork dropped in. It is fabes de la granja cooked with pig's trotters and ear, the cheap cuts from the matanza that give the broth its body. A fabada leans on compango. This one leans on gelatin, pimentón, and a pot kept quiet.
The method that decides it is the simmer. Start the soaked fabes and the pork in cold water, bring them up slowly, then keep the surface at the barest tremble. A boil breaks the beans and shakes the gelatin into a cloudy broth; a low tremble lets the skins stay whole while the broth turns glossy and thick enough to coat a spoon. Don't stir. Shake the pot by the handles if you must.
If you can't find fabes where you are, use judión or a good large cannellini, and know the texture will be a little less buttery. If salted ear is hard to find, use fresh pig's ear with a small piece of salt pork, and salt late. No hace falta haber pisado España. You do need the trotters split, the beans soaked, and patience enough not to rush the pot.
In my Margin beside this dish I wrote one thing: taste before salting. The salted ear can carry more than you think. Do that, keep the simmer low, and siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Fabes con uñes de gochu belongs to Asturias and to the cocina de cuchara, spoon food, that made a full meal from dried beans and the pig after the matanza, the household pig slaughter. In Asturian, gochu means pig and uñes are the trotters, the parts that cost little but carry enough collagen to thicken a pot without flour. It sits beside fabada in the Asturian bean family, plainer in its pork and very much a home dish of nothing wasted.
Quantity
500g
soaked overnight; use judión or large cannellini if needed
Quantity
2 (about 900g)
split lengthwise, fresh or salted
Quantity
250g
soaked to desalt
Quantity
1 medium (about 150g)
peeled, left whole
Quantity
3 cloves
peeled
Quantity
1
Quantity
3
Quantity
60ml
divided
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 pinch
Quantity
2.5L, plus more as needed
Quantity
to taste
added near the end
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried fabes de la granjasoaked overnight; use judión or large cannellini if needed | 500g |
| pig's trotterssplit lengthwise, fresh or salted | 2 (about 900g) |
| salted pig's earsoaked to desalt | 250g |
| onionpeeled, left whole | 1 medium (about 150g) |
| garlicpeeled | 3 cloves |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| parsley sprigs | 3 |
| olive oildivided | 60ml |
| sweet pimentón | 1 teaspoon |
| saffron threads (optional) | 1 pinch |
| cold water | 2.5L, plus more as needed |
| saltadded near the end | to taste |
The night before, put the fabes in a large bowl and cover them with at least 8cm cold water. In a separate bowl, soak the salted ear, and the trotters too if they are salted, in cold water for 12 to 24 hours, changing the water once or twice. Keep the beans and pork separate; the pork is losing salt while the beans are drinking water, and they do not need the same bath.
Drain the ear and trotters. Put them in a pot, cover with cold water, bring to a boil, and boil for 5 minutes. Drain, rinse well, and scrape away any rough bits. This first boil is cleaning, not cooking. With salted cuts it keeps the broth clean and lets you control the salt later.
Drain the soaked fabes and put them in a wide, heavy pot with the blanched trotters and ear. Add the whole onion, garlic, bay leaf, parsley, 30ml of the olive oil, and enough cold water to cover everything by about 4cm. Bring it up slowly over medium-low heat and skim the foam that rises. Start cold, not hot; the beans cook more evenly and their skins have a better chance of staying whole.
Lower the heat until the surface barely trembles. Cook for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, adding small splashes of cold water when the liquid drops below the beans or the pot threatens to boil. This is asustar las fabes, startling the beans, and it helps keep the skins from splitting. Do not stir with a spoon. Move the pot by the handles now and then, gently, like you mean it.
When the fabes are nearly tender, warm the remaining 30ml olive oil in a small pan. Take it off the heat, stir in the pimentón until it smells sweet and turns brick red, then pour it into the pot. If using saffron, crumble it into a spoonful of hot broth and add it now. Lift out the onion and garlic, mash them with a ladleful of fabes, and return the paste to the pot. Do not fry pimentón over the flame; scorched pimentón makes the whole stew bitter.
Taste before adding salt. The salted ear may have done half the work already. Simmer 20 to 30 minutes more, still low, until the fabes are creamy and the broth coats a spoon with a glossy film. Lift out the trotters and ear, remove any large bones, cut the ear and trotter meat into spoonable pieces, and return them to the pot. Let the stew rest off the heat for 20 minutes before serving in deep bowls with bread for the broth.
1 serving (about 480g)
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