
Chef Isabel
Fabada Asturiana
Fabada Asturiana is Asturias in a pot: fat fabes de la granja, cured compango, and a slow tremble on the stove until the beans turn creamy and the broth shines.
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Fabes con calamares is Asturian sidrería cooking: creamy fabes de la granja with squid, ink, cider, and a slow sofrito. Keep the beans at a bare tremble and the squid stays tender.
Fabes con calamares is Asturian, from the same wet northern table that gives us fabada, but this is not fabada with the meat taken out. Here the fabes de la granja, fat white beans, meet squid, its ink, a slow onion sofrito, and a little sidra or white wine. It tastes of Asturias by the sea, not the mountain pot with compango.
The method that decides it is gentleness. The beans need a bare tremble, never a boil, until they turn creamy without bursting. The squid wants the same respect: cooked either quickly or slowly, but never bullied in the middle where it turns rubbery. In this stew we go slow, letting it soften into the sofrito before it joins the beans.
If you can't find fabes where you are, use a large dried white bean, judion if you can, cannellini if that's what the shop gives you. The broth will be a little less buttery, but it will still be honest. For the squid, frozen cleaned squid is fine, and often better than tired fresh squid. Keep the ink if you have it, or buy sachets of squid ink. No hace falta haber pisado España.
Cook the sofrito low until the onion is dark gold and jammy, because that is where the sweetness comes from. Rush it and the ink tastes flat and sharp. Then let the pot rest before serving, so the fabes drink the sea-dark sauce. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Fabes with seafood belong naturally to Asturias, where the inland bean pot meets the Cantabrian coast and the sidrería table. The same prized faba asturiana used for meat stews is also cooked with clams, spider crab, squid, and other shellfish when the coast gives the pot its seasoning instead of the matanza. Squid ink is not decoration here; it thickens, darkens, and carries the sweet mineral taste of the calamar into the beans.
Quantity
500g
soaked overnight
Quantity
1.1kg
bodies cut into 2cm rings, tentacles left in pieces
Quantity
3 sachets, about 12g total
or ink from the squid
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
250g
finely chopped
Quantity
120g
finely chopped
Quantity
4 cloves
finely chopped
Quantity
150g
grated, or 120g canned crushed tomato
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
150ml
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 small sprig, plus 1 tablespoon
chopped to finish
Quantity
1.8 litres, plus more as needed
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried fabes de la granja or large dried white beanssoaked overnight | 500g |
| cleaned squidbodies cut into 2cm rings, tentacles left in pieces | 1.1kg |
| squid inkor ink from the squid | 3 sachets, about 12g total |
| extra virgin olive oil | 80ml |
| onionfinely chopped | 250g |
| green pepperfinely chopped | 120g |
| garlicfinely chopped | 4 cloves |
| ripe tomatograted, or 120g canned crushed tomato | 150g |
| sweet pimenton de la Vera | 1 teaspoon |
| dry Asturian sidra or dry white wine | 150ml |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| parsleychopped to finish | 1 small sprig, plus 1 tablespoon |
| cold water | 1.8 litres, plus more as needed |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
The night before, cover the fabes with plenty of cold water and leave them to soak 12 hours. Drain them, put them in a wide heavy pot, and cover with 1.8 litres fresh cold water. Add the bay leaf and parsley sprig, then bring them up slowly over medium-low heat.
When the first foam rises, skim it off. Lower the heat until the surface barely trembles and cook the fabes for 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours, until they are almost tender but not collapsing. If the water drops below the beans, add a small splash of cold water. Do not stir with a spoon; shake the pot by the handles.
While the beans cook, warm the olive oil in a wide pan. Add the onion, green pepper, and a pinch of salt, and cook over low heat for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring now and then, until the onion is dark gold and soft. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more. This slow onion base, the sofrito, is where the sweetness comes from.
Add the squid to the sofrito and raise the heat to medium. Cook 5 minutes, until it gives off its liquid and tightens, then add the grated tomato. Cook 10 minutes, until the tomato is thick and the oil shows at the edges. Stir in the pimenton for 20 seconds, then pour in the sidra or white wine and let it bubble for 3 minutes.
Mash the squid ink with 3 tablespoons of warm bean cooking liquid in a small bowl, then stir it into the squid pan. Simmer gently for 20 minutes, until the squid starts to soften and the sauce turns black and glossy. Taste for salt, but keep it light because the beans will reduce a little more.
When the fabes are almost tender, remove the bay leaf and parsley sprig. Scrape the squid and its ink sauce into the bean pot. Shake the pot gently to settle everything together and continue cooking at the barest tremble for 25 to 35 minutes, until the beans are creamy and the squid is tender. If the stew thickens too much, loosen it with a splash of hot water.
Turn off the heat and let the stew rest 15 minutes. The broth will settle from black to a deep charcoal gloss and cling to the beans. Taste once more for salt, finish with chopped parsley, and serve in deep bowls with bread for the sauce. Con buenos ingredientes y paciencia, this is cocina de cuchara, spoon food, tal como se hace allí.
1 serving (about 550g)
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Chef Isabel
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