
Chef Isabel
Fabada Asturiana
Fabada Asturiana is Asturias in a pot: fat fabes de la granja, cured compango, and a slow tremble on the stove until the beans turn creamy and the broth shines.
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Fabes con almejas is Asturian spoon food where the bean pot meets the Cantabrian coast: creamy fabes first, clams last, so the broth turns silky and the shellfish stay tender.
Fabes con almejas is Asturian, and Asturias knows how to put mountain and sea in the same pot without making a fuss of it. The fabes, fat white beans cooked until creamy, give the dish its body. The almejas, clams, go in at the end with garlic, parsley, white wine, and a little pimentón, just long enough to open. That is what makes it this dish and not a fabada with the pork taken out.
The method that decides it is the timing. Cook the beans first, low and quiet, until they are tender all the way through and the broth has turned silky. Then add the clams only at the finish. If they boil along with the beans, they go tight and sulky. If they open in the hot bean broth, they give you their liquor and stay sweet. Simple, but not casual.
No hace falta haber pisado España. You do need the best beans and clams you can get. Fabes de la granja are right if you can find them; large dried cannellini work if you cannot, though the broth will be a little less buttery. For clams, buy small live hard-shell clams or littlenecks, scrub them well, and purge them. Pésalo, no lo adivines. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
In the Margin beside this one I keep only two warnings: do not boil the beans hard, and do not make the clams wait. That is enough.
Fabes con almejas belongs to Asturias, where the same cooking tradition that made rich inland bean stews also had the Cantabrian coast close at hand. It is part of cocina de cuchara, spoon food, but lighter than fabada because the flavor comes from shellfish liquor, garlic, parsley, and olive oil rather than compango. The dish shows an Asturian habit of joining land and sea plainly, with the bean still treated as the main thing and the clam as the bright finish.
Quantity
500g
soaked overnight
Quantity
1.2kg
scrubbed
Quantity
35g
Quantity
1.5 litres, plus more for soaking
Quantity
1 medium
peeled and halved
Quantity
1
cleaned and halved
Quantity
1
Quantity
4
2 whole, 2 finely chopped
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
120g
finely chopped
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
150ml
Quantity
1 small pinch
lightly crushed
Quantity
15g
finely chopped
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried fabes de la granja or large dried cannellini beanssoaked overnight | 500g |
| small live clamsscrubbed | 1.2kg |
| sea salt, for purging the clams | 35g |
| cold water | 1.5 litres, plus more for soaking |
| onion for the bean potpeeled and halved | 1 medium |
| small leekcleaned and halved | 1 |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| garlic cloves2 whole, 2 finely chopped | 4 |
| extra virgin olive oil | 80ml |
| onion for the sofritofinely chopped | 120g |
| sweet pimentón de la Vera | 1 teaspoon |
| dry white wine or Asturian cider | 150ml |
| saffron threads (optional)lightly crushed | 1 small pinch |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleyfinely chopped | 15g |
| salt | to taste |
Put the fabes in a large bowl and cover them with plenty of cold water. Leave them overnight, 12 to 14 hours. They swell more than you think, so give them room. Drain them before cooking and discard any split beans or stones.
About 2 hours before cooking the clams, stir 35g sea salt into 1 litre cold water until dissolved. Add the scrubbed clams and leave them in a cool place for 1 to 2 hours so they spit out sand. Lift them out with your hands instead of pouring the sandy water back over them. Discard any cracked clams or any that stay open when tapped.
Put the drained fabes in a wide heavy pot with 1.5 litres cold water, the halved onion, leek, bay leaf, 2 whole garlic cloves, and 40ml of the olive oil. Bring it up slowly over medium heat. When the first foam rises, skim it off. Starting cold and climbing slowly helps the skins stay whole.
Lower the heat until the pot barely trembles. Cook the fabes gently for 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours 15 minutes, depending on their age, until they are tender and creamy inside. Do not boil them hard and do not stir with a spoon. Shake the pot by the handles now and then. If the surface looks dry, add a small splash of cold water. Salt only when the beans are almost tender.
While the beans finish, warm the remaining 40ml olive oil in a frying pan. Add the finely chopped onion with a pinch of salt and cook it low for 12 to 15 minutes, until soft, dark gold, and sweet. Add the chopped garlic and cook 1 minute more. Pull the pan off the heat, stir in the pimentón so it blooms without burning, then return it to the heat with the wine and saffron. Let it bubble for 2 minutes.
Lift the cooked onion, leek, bay leaf, and whole garlic from the bean pot. Stir the sofrito into the fabes by shaking the pot, not by digging through it. Simmer 10 minutes so the broth takes the garlic, pimentón, and wine. Taste for salt now; the clams will add their own briny liquor.
Raise the heat just enough for a lively simmer. Add the drained clams, cover the pot, and cook 3 to 5 minutes, shaking the pot once or twice, until the shells open. Take the pot off the heat as soon as they open. Throw away any clams that remain shut. This is the step that decides the dish: clams opened at the end are tender and sweet; clams boiled with the beans are little rubber buttons, and nobody asked for that.
Stir in the parsley, cover the pot, and let it rest 5 minutes. The broth should be pale gold, glossy with olive oil, and thick enough to coat the beans without turning heavy. Serve in deep bowls with bread for the broth. Tal como se hace allí, plainly and hot.
1 serving (about 400g)
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