
Chef Ally
Beef Bourguignon
Humble beef transformed by good red wine, patience, and the kind of slow cooking that fills a house with warmth and brings everyone to the table asking when dinner will be ready.
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Thick rounds of late-summer eggplant, salted until silky, fried crisp in good olive oil, and layered with crushed tomatoes and melting cheese until bubbling and golden. The kind of dish that makes vegetarians of us all.
Start with the eggplant. It should feel heavy for its size, the skin taut and glossy, with no soft spots or wrinkles. Late summer is your window. This is when globe eggplants reach their peak, their flesh dense and creamy rather than spongy and bitter. Find a farmer who grows them with care, and you are already halfway to a great dish.
Eggplant Parmesan is not complicated. It is layers of fried eggplant, good tomato sauce, and melting cheese, baked until everything becomes one. But simple does not mean careless. The salting matters. The quality of your tomatoes matters. The freshness of your mozzarella matters. Each choice compounds.
I have eaten versions drowned in sauce, the eggplant an afterthought swimming in cheese. That misses the point. The vegetable should stand equal to any meat entree, and for that to happen, you must respect its texture and flavor. Salt it properly. Fry it until golden. Let things taste of what they are.
This is comfort food with conviction. It feeds a crowd, it improves overnight, and it proves that the best cooking is not about doing more. It is about doing enough, and no more, to honor what the season gives you.
Quantity
3 medium (about 3 pounds total)
Quantity
2 tablespoons, plus more to taste
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
4
beaten
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
1 cup
finely grated, divided
Quantity
about 1 cup
Quantity
1 pound
sliced thin
Quantity
for layering and finishing
Quantity
2 cans (28 ounces each)
Quantity
4 cloves
smashed
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| globe eggplants | 3 medium (about 3 pounds total) |
| kosher salt | 2 tablespoons, plus more to taste |
| all-purpose flour | 1 cup |
| large eggsbeaten | 4 |
| fresh breadcrumbs or panko | 2 cups |
| Parmigiano-Reggianofinely grated, divided | 1 cup |
| olive oil for frying | about 1 cup |
| fresh mozzarellasliced thin | 1 pound |
| fresh basil leaves | for layering and finishing |
| whole San Marzano tomatoes | 2 cans (28 ounces each) |
| garlicsmashed | 4 cloves |
| good olive oil | 1/4 cup |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Slice the eggplants into rounds about half an inch thick. Lay them in a single layer on sheet pans and sprinkle both sides generously with kosher salt. Let them sit for thirty to forty minutes. You will see beads of moisture rise to the surface. This draws out bitterness and excess water, which means better texture when you fry. Pat each slice very dry with paper towels.
While the eggplant salts, crush the tomatoes by hand into a bowl, breaking them into rough pieces. Warm the olive oil in a wide pan over medium heat. Add the smashed garlic and cook until fragrant but not browned, about one minute. Add the tomatoes with their juices, a pinch of salt, and a few basil leaves. Simmer gently for twenty to twenty-five minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens slightly and the raw tomato taste softens. Remove the garlic and basil. Taste. Adjust salt.
Arrange three shallow bowls in a row. The first holds flour seasoned with salt and pepper. The second holds beaten eggs. The third holds breadcrumbs mixed with half the grated Parmigiano. This assembly line keeps your hands cleaner and the coating even.
Take each dried eggplant slice and dredge it in flour, shaking off excess. Dip into the egg, letting extra drip away. Press firmly into the breadcrumb mixture, coating both sides well. Lay breaded slices on a clean sheet pan. They can overlap slightly.
Heat about a quarter inch of olive oil in a large skillet over medium to medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers and a breadcrumb sizzles immediately upon contact, add eggplant slices in a single layer without crowding. Fry until deeply golden on the bottom, two to three minutes. Flip and repeat. The crust should be crisp and the eggplant tender when pierced with a knife. Transfer to a wire rack set over a sheet pan. Continue with remaining slices, adding oil as needed.
Preheat your oven to 375 degrees. Spread a thin layer of tomato sauce across the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Arrange a layer of fried eggplant over the sauce, overlapping slightly if needed. Spoon more sauce over the eggplant. Scatter mozzarella slices and a few torn basil leaves. Repeat the layers: eggplant, sauce, mozzarella, basil. Finish with a final layer of sauce, the remaining mozzarella, and the rest of the Parmigiano.
Cover the dish loosely with foil and bake for twenty-five minutes. Remove the foil and bake another fifteen to twenty minutes until the cheese is golden and spotted brown in places, the sauce bubbling around the edges. The aroma will fill your kitchen.
Let the dish rest for ten to fifteen minutes before cutting. This is not optional. The layers need time to settle, the cheese to firm slightly, the juices to redistribute. Cut into squares and serve with fresh basil scattered over the top and perhaps a drizzle of good olive oil.
1 serving (about 500g)
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