
Chef Jeong-sun
Bokbunja-ju (Black Raspberry Wine)
Summer bokbunja steeped with sugar and strong damgeum soju until the berries give up their deep tart color, a make-ahead Korean fruit wine for small cold cups and a slow table.
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A measured home version of Myeoncheon's spring rice wine, made from steamed glutinous rice, nuruk, and edible azalea petals cleaned one by one, then strained clear for a table that waited.
Dugyeonju belongs to a very short spring. When jindallae (edible Korean azalea) opens on the hills, you have days, not weeks, and the cook's first work is not brewing but sorting: petal from stamen, blossom from calyx, safe flower from dangerous lookalike. Cook the month you're standing in. If those flowers are not truly edible and unsprayed, don't force this wine with florist stems. Make a plain yakju (clear rice wine) and wait.
This drink lives or dies by three quiet things: godubap (firm steamed rice) with separate grains, nuruk (wheat fermentation starter) crumbled fine, and petals laid into the rice only after the rice has cooled. Hot rice kills the yeast and wilts the flower. Too many petals make bitterness; too few leave only a name. Notebook 47 says 90 grams cleaned fresh petals to 1 kilogram glutinous rice. That is enough for the wine to remember spring without chewing on it.
Tonight is not the drinking night. Tonight you wash and soak the rice, clean flowers one by one, steam and cool, then leave the jar to work for two weeks where the room is steady. I won't tell you this is easy. But there is no hidden trick here: clean flowers, clean vessel, measured water, patient hands. Write it down. Memory is a borrowed bowl.
Myeoncheon Dugyeonju is a traditional yakju (clear rice wine) from Myeoncheon, now part of Dangjin in Chungcheongnam-do, and it was designated National Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 86-2 in 1986. Local tradition ties the drink to Bok Ji-gyeom, a Goryeo founding merit subject, and to a story of his daughter brewing wine with azaleas from Amisan and water from Ansaem spring to help him recover from illness. It was served at the April 2018 inter-Korean summit banquet in Panmunjom, bringing a regional spring liquor briefly onto the national table.
Quantity
1 kg
Quantity
1.5 liters
boiled and cooled to room temperature
Quantity
180 g
crumbled fine
Quantity
90 g cleaned petals, or 18 g food-grade dried petals
petals only, stamens, pistils, calyxes, and stems removed
Quantity
a few
for serving
Quantity
as needed
for rinsing, soaking, and steaming
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| glutinous rice (chapssal) | 1 kg |
| chlorine-free waterboiled and cooled to room temperature | 1.5 liters |
| nuruk (Korean wheat fermentation starter)crumbled fine | 180 g |
| fresh food-grade edible Korean azalea petals (jindallae)petals only, stamens, pistils, calyxes, and stems removed | 90 g cleaned petals, or 18 g food-grade dried petals |
| extra cleaned edible azalea petals (optional)for serving | a few |
| additional waterfor rinsing, soaking, and steaming | as needed |
Use only food-grade edible Korean azalea petals, jindallae (Rhododendron mucronulatum). Do not use florist azaleas, ornamental rhododendrons, roadside flowers, or cheoljjuk (royal azalea). Pull away every stamen, pistil, green calyx, and stem, because the petals are the part wanted here and the rest brings bitterness and risk. Rinse the petals quickly in two bowls of cool water, lifting them out so grit stays behind, then dry them on a clean towel for 30 minutes. Damp petals dilute the mash and make sourness easier.
Rinse the glutinous rice in 6 or 7 changes of cool water, rubbing it gently between your palms, until the water runs mostly clear. Soak it in fresh cool water for 8 hours, then drain in a colander for 1 hour. This is not empty waiting. The soak carries water to the center of the grain so the rice steams firm and even, not hard in the middle and sticky outside.
Line a steamer with a wet cotton cloth and spread the drained rice evenly. Steam over steady high heat for 45 to 50 minutes. After 30 minutes, sprinkle about 120 ml boiling water over the rice and turn it once with a rice paddle, then finish steaming. The rice should be translucent and cooked through, but the grains should still hold their shape. This is godubap (firm steamed rice), and it gives nuruk something to work on without turning the jar into paste.
Spread the steamed rice on a sanitized tray or wide bowl and let it cool to 25 to 28 C. Turn it once or twice so the heat leaves evenly. Hot rice kills the yeasts in the nuruk and bruises the flowers. If you do not have a thermometer, press a clean hand into the rice; it should feel just warm, never hot.
Crumble the nuruk very fine, sifting out any hard pebbles. Stir it into the 1.5 liters cooled boiled water in a sanitized bowl and let it sit for 20 minutes. Nuruk is not just flavor. Its enzymes change rice starch into sugar, and its yeasts change that sugar into alcohol, so it has to touch the rice evenly.
Sanitize a 5 to 6 liter onggi or wide-mouth glass jar. Layer one-third of the cooled rice, one-third of the nuruk water, and one-third of the cleaned petals. Repeat twice more. With a sanitized hand or spoon, lift and turn the mash for 1 minute so the nuruk reaches the rice, but do not crush the petals into paste. Leave generous headspace, at least one-third of the jar empty, then cover with a cloth and rubber band or a fermentation airlock. Never seal active rice wine tightly.
Keep the jar at 20 to 22 C for the first 3 days. Stir twice a day on days 1 and 2, then once on day 3, always with a sanitized spoon. The rice will rise, bubbles will appear, and the smell should be grainy, lightly sweet, and floral with a clean sour edge. Stirring early keeps the top from drying out and helps the nuruk work through the rice.
After day 3, move the jar to 18 to 20 C and leave it mostly alone. If rice floats above the liquid, press it down gently with a sanitized spoon. Begin tasting on day 10. The wine is ready to strain between days 12 and 14, when bubbling has slowed, the rice grains have softened and begun to sink, and the liquid tastes lightly sweet, cleanly alcoholic, and floral without raw rice flavor. 손맛 is real. I still measure it, so it can be handed on.
Pour the mash through a sanitized brew bag or cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a clean bowl. Let it drain for 1 hour, then press only lightly. Hard squeezing pulls harshness from the nuruk and bitterness from the spent petals. For dugyeonju, you want the clearer yakju (clear rice wine) portion, not a heavy cloudy takju.
Cover the strained wine and refrigerate it for 24 hours so sediment drops to the bottom. Pour or siphon the clear upper wine into sanitized bottles, leaving 2 cm headspace. Keep refrigerated and vent the bottles once a day for the first 3 days, because fermentation can continue and pressure can build. The wine is drinkable now, but 3 to 7 days of cold rest rounds the grain flavor.
Pour the chilled dugyeonju into small cups without shaking up the sediment. If you reserved safe cleaned petals, float one or two on each cup, petals only. The wine should be pale straw with a faint blush, lightly floral, and still clearly a rice wine. Serve it with mild jeon (pan-fried cakes), fresh pear, or simple rice sweets, not with food so spicy that the flower disappears.
1 serving (about 130g)
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