
Chef Jeong-sun
Bokbunja-ju (Black Raspberry Wine)
Summer bokbunja steeped with sugar and strong damgeum soju until the berries give up their deep tart color, a make-ahead Korean fruit wine for small cold cups and a slow table.
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A cloudy Korean rice wine brewed with sweet rice, nuruk, and water, strained just enough to drink while pale grains bob on top, the celebration cup that asks for patience more than equipment.
Dongdongju is misunderstood because people meet it beside makgeolli and think the floating rice is decoration. No. The rice is the point. If you strain it too finely, you have made a smoother takju. If you throw cooked rice into finished wine, you have made confusion in a bowl. The grains have to ferment with the drink, soften, lighten, and rise on their own.
My teacher made us watch the rice longer than the jar. 눈동냥, 귀동냥, borrowing with the eyes and ears. She would press one grain between finger and thumb and know if the soaking was right before anyone reached for nuruk. Dongdongju asks for that kind of attention: wash the rice clean, steam it hard, cool it fully, then keep the vessel warm enough for life and clean enough for safety.
This is a celebration drink, often poured with jeon and holiday food, but it is not grand in the difficult way. It needs time, not ceremony. Tonight you wash and soak the rice. Tomorrow you steam, cool, mix, and then you wait, stirring with clean hands and a steady mind. Write down the room temperature and the day it tasted right. Memory is a borrowed bowl.
Dongdongju belongs to Korea's takju family, cloudy rice wines brewed from steamed rice, nuruk, and water long before bottled makgeolli became a supermarket drink. Its name refers to the cooked rice grains that float, dongdong, on the surface after a light straining, and it has long been served with harvest and holiday foods such as jeon. Twentieth-century liquor taxes and the 1965 restriction on using rice for commercial alcohol weakened many household brewing lines; the modern revival of small Korean rice-wine breweries has brought regional dongdongju back into public view.
Quantity
1kg
Quantity
180g
crumbled
Quantity
1.6 liters
boiled and cooled to 20-24°C, plus more for rinsing and soaking
Quantity
1/2 cup
as needed during steaming
Quantity
1g
for weak commercial nuruk
Quantity
1 to 2 cups
chilled, for diluting after fermentation
Quantity
1 to 2 tablespoons
for sweetening only at serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| short-grain glutinous rice (chapssal) | 1kg |
| nuruk (Korean fermentation starter)crumbled | 180g |
| waterboiled and cooled to 20-24°C, plus more for rinsing and soaking | 1.6 liters |
| boiling water (optional)as needed during steaming | 1/2 cup |
| dry brewing yeast (optional)for weak commercial nuruk | 1g |
| boiled and cooled water (optional)chilled, for diluting after fermentation | 1 to 2 cups |
| sugar or honey (optional)for sweetening only at serving | 1 to 2 tablespoons |
Rinse the glutinous rice in cool water 6 to 8 times, rubbing the grains gently between your palms, until the water is mostly clear. Soak the rice in plenty of fresh water for 8 to 12 hours, then drain it in a colander for 1 hour. Wet rice makes a heavy, muddy ferment; rice that is not soaked through leaves hard centers that the nuruk cannot digest evenly.
Line a steamer with a damp cotton cloth and spread the drained rice in an even layer. Steam over a brisk boil for 40 to 45 minutes, until the grains are translucent and chewy with no chalky center. If the rice looks dry after 25 minutes, sprinkle up to 1/2 cup boiling water over it and keep steaming. This is godubap, hard-steamed rice. Do not use soft rice-cooker rice here, because it breaks into paste and gives you wine with no clean floating grains.
Spread the steamed rice on a clean tray and cool it to 25°C or lower, about 45 minutes. While it cools, sanitize a 4 to 5 liter wide-mouth jar, your spoon, sieve, and anything that will touch the ferment with boiling water or no-rinse sanitizer. Hot rice kills the yeasts in nuruk. A dirty vessel invites the wrong sourness. 정성이 첫째예요, sincerity comes first, and in brewing it begins before the ingredients meet.
Pour 1.6 liters cooled boiled water into the sanitized vessel and stir in the crumbled nuruk. Add the optional brewing yeast only if your nuruk is old or commercial and mild. Add the cooled rice and mix with a sanitized spoon or very clean hand for 5 full minutes, breaking apart clumps so every grain is wet. Fill the vessel no more than two-thirds full, then cover with a clean cloth, loose lid, or airlock. Do not seal it tight; fermentation needs to release gas.
Keep the vessel at 20-22°C, out of direct sun. Stir twice a day for the first 2 days with a sanitized spoon, pressing the rice cap back under the liquid each time. The mixture should begin to bubble, smell grainy and lightly sour, and turn cloudy. Stirring early helps the yeasts wake evenly and keeps dry rice from sitting on the surface where spoilage starts.
From day 4, taste a teaspoon each day with a clean spoon. Dongdongju is ready around day 5 or 6 when it tastes sweet-sour, clearly alcoholic, and the rice grains are tender, with some bobbing at the surface. If it is still very sweet and thick, wait another day. If you see fuzzy black, blue, pink, or orange mold, or smell rot instead of grain, tartness, and alcohol, discard the batch. Do not rescue spoiled rice wine.
Sanitize a coarse sieve and set it over a large bowl. Skim off about 1 cup of intact floating rice grains and reserve them. Pour the ferment through the sieve, pressing gently but not wringing hard, because harsh squeezing pulls bitterness from the nuruk solids. Stir in 1 to 2 cups chilled boiled water only if you want a lighter, more pourable drink. Return the reserved grains to the strained wine so they float on top. That is the name of the drink, not a garnish tossed in later.
Chill the dongdongju at least 4 hours before serving. Stir or swirl gently before pouring, then ladle it into small bowls with a few rice grains in each. Taste before you sweeten. If it is too sharp for your table, stir in 1 tablespoon sugar or honey per liter only for what you will serve that day. Store leftovers in the refrigerator in a loosely capped jar or plastic bottle with headspace, and vent daily. Never seal active rice wine in glass.
1 serving (about 220g)
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