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Ihwaju (Spoon-Eaten Rice Wine)

Ihwaju (Spoon-Eaten Rice Wine)

Created by Chef Jeong-sun

A pear-blossom-season rice wine so thick it takes a spoon, fermented from steamed rice flour and rice nuruk until it turns sweet, faintly tart, and soft enough to thin with cold water.

Beverages
Korean
Special Occasion
Make Ahead
9 hr
Active Time
30 min cook177 hr 30 min total
YieldAbout 1.4 liters, 10 to 12 small spoon servings

Ihwaju is often mistranslated badly enough to send people looking for pears. There are no pears in the jar. The name points to the season, when pear blossoms open and the room is cool enough for a slow, gentle ferment. Cook the month you're standing in; if your kitchen is summer-hot, wait or give it a cool room, because this drink turns sharp before it turns kind.

Master Seong-nyeo made me watch the mash, not the clock. On the first day it was stiff enough to stand a spoon. By the third day it loosened and worked quietly; by the sixth it tasted of sweet rice, yogurt, and a little rice wine. The whole thing lives or dies by cooked rice flour, cooled fully before the nuruk touches it. Hot rice kills the starter. Raw flour leaves a chalky tongue. Too much water makes makgeolli, not ihwaju.

This is not a large drinking bowl for noise. It is a small serving after a special meal, spooned like soft porridge or thinned with cold water in summer. I give you the measured water and the temperature because that is where the old recipes get quiet. Write it down. Memory is a borrowed bowl.

Ingredients

wet-milled short-grain rice flour (maepssal-garu)

Quantity

600g

thawed if frozen, unsalted

rice-flour nuruk (ihwagok or active rice nuruk)

Quantity

150g

finely powdered

cooled boiled water

Quantity

500ml

20 to 25 C

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