
Chef Joost
Appelbeignets (Dutch Apple Fritters)
A winter apple ring in light batter, fried for oudejaarsavond, New Year's Eve, when the oliebol makes the noise and the quieter beignet keeps the cinnamon-sugared secret.
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A round raisin bread for Driekoningen, Three Kings' Day, with a hidden bean, a star in the crust, and one ordinary eater crowned king for a day.
The Christmas tree was never the end of the season in the Dutch house I knew. The real closing note came on 6 January, Driekoningen, Three Kings' Day, when the last sweetness of the feast calendar was baked into a round loaf and one dangerous little bean was hidden inside. Dangerous to dignity, I mean. Find it in your slice and you ruled the table for a day, which in a family kitchen usually meant choosing the song, refusing the washing-up, and becoming unbearable before coffee.
The name already tells you the whole stage: drie koningen, three kings, the wise men arriving after the child has already been born and the household has already eaten too much. But let me tell you a secret. This bread is less about monarchy than reversal. For one afternoon the smallest child, the quiet aunt, or the guest who came in from the rain might become king. The dried bean is older than the paper crown; beans have been tokens of luck and selection since Roman winter feasts, and Christian Europe, practical as ever, tucked the old game into a new holy day.
This is enriched bread, so it asks for patience, not display. Butter and egg make the crumb tender, raisins keep it generous, and the round shape matters because a crown has no corners. Cut a star into the top before baking, the simplest possible sign for the star of Bethlehem. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple: knead until the dough feels alive under your hands, let it rise fully, hide the bean where no one can accuse you of favoritism, and serve the loaf in wedges at the table. A dish without its story is half a meal, and this one comes with a crown.
Driekoningenbrood belongs to the Low Countries' Epiphany customs of 6 January, when children sang door to door with star lanterns and families marked the visit of the Magi with a bean hidden in a cake or bread. The bean-king custom is documented across western Europe from medieval feast practice and is related to French galette des rois and southern European king cakes, though Dutch versions often stayed closer to an enriched raisin loaf than a pastry. In the Netherlands the custom declined in many Protestant regions after the Reformation, but it survived in Catholic households and border provinces, especially in Brabant, Limburg, and Flemish-influenced kitchens.
Quantity
500g
plus extra for dusting
Quantity
75g
Quantity
10g
Quantity
8g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
250ml
lukewarm
Quantity
1 large
Quantity
80g
softened
Quantity
200g
Quantity
50g
finely chopped
Quantity
1
scrubbed clean
Quantity
1 yolk plus 1 tablespoon milk
beaten together
Quantity
1 tablespoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bread flourplus extra for dusting | 500g |
| fine sugar | 75g |
| instant yeast | 10g |
| fine sea salt | 8g |
| ground cinnamon | 1 teaspoon |
| ground mace or nutmeg | 1/4 teaspoon |
| whole milklukewarm | 250ml |
| egg | 1 large |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 80g |
| raisins | 200g |
| candied orange peel (optional)finely chopped | 50g |
| dried white bean or whole almondscrubbed clean | 1 |
| egg yolk and milk glazebeaten together | 1 yolk plus 1 tablespoon milk |
| pearl sugar or coarse sugar (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
Put the flour, sugar, yeast, salt, cinnamon, and mace or nutmeg in a large bowl, keeping the salt and yeast apart until you mix. Add the lukewarm milk and egg, then stir until a rough dough forms. Knead for five minutes, then work in the softened butter a little at a time. The dough will look sulky at first, then smooth out and become elastic; that is the butter joining the feast.
Knead in the raisins and candied orange peel, if using, until they are evenly spread through the dough. If the raisins keep escaping, flatten the dough, scatter them over it, fold it like a letter, and knead again. Cover the bowl and let the dough rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
Turn the risen dough onto a lightly floured surface and press it into a thick round. Place the dried bean or almond near the outer third of the dough, not in the centre, then fold the dough over it and shape into a tight round loaf. This is the one moment you must be impartial. No winking at the child you like best.
Set the round loaf on a parchment-lined baking tray, cover it loosely, and let it prove for 45 to 60 minutes until puffy and light. Heat the oven to 190C. Press the loaf gently with one finger; if the dent slowly fills back in, it is ready. If it springs back at once, give it more time.
Brush the loaf with the egg yolk and milk glaze. With a sharp knife or lame, cut a shallow six-point star into the top, no deeper than 5mm, so the bread opens where you have invited it to open. Scatter with pearl sugar if you want a little festival glitter, the homely kind.
Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the crust is deep golden and the loaf sounds hollow when tapped underneath. If it browns too quickly, lay a loose sheet of foil over the top for the last ten minutes. Cool for at least 45 minutes before slicing, because a hot enriched loaf tears instead of cutting, and the king should be found by chance, not by wreckage.
Slice the bread into wedges at the table and warn everyone about the hidden bean. Whoever finds it is koning voor een dag, king for a day. Serve with butter, coffee, and a paper crown if your household is willing to be ridiculous in the old way.
1 serving (about 95g)
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