
Chef Joost
Appelbeignets (Dutch Apple Fritters)
A winter apple ring in light batter, fried for oudejaarsavond, New Year's Eve, when the oliebol makes the noise and the quieter beignet keeps the cinnamon-sugared secret.
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Gourmetten is the Dutch feast where nobody leaves the table because everyone is cooking: small pans, small portions, long conversation, and December doing what December does best.
Some dishes belong to a region, and some belong to an evening. Gourmetten belongs to the long Dutch Christmas table, when the windows are black by five, the candles are already low, and the family has decided, very sensibly, that the cook should also be allowed to sit down.
The name already tells you this is a borrowed little luxury, made Dutch by grammar and habit. From French gourmet we made gourmetten, to gourmet, because Dutch can turn nearly anything into a verb if the table requires it. But let me tell you a secret: for all its French collar, the soul of this meal is deeply Dutch. Nobody performs. Everyone cooks one tiny thing, waits, talks, burns a mushroom, forgives the uncle who overfills his pan, and passes the garlic sauce.
This is not old peasant fare, and we shouldn't pretend it is. It is a late-twentieth-century ritual, born with the electric tabletop grill and adopted because it solved a feast-day problem beautifully: abundance without one person disappearing into the kitchen. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple. Good meat, small pieces, dry vegetables, a few honest sauces, and enough time. The cooking is half the meal; the waiting is the other half.
Gourmetten is a Dutch late-twentieth-century table custom, shaped by the arrival of small electric tabletop grills and raclette-style pans in homes during the 1970s and 1980s. The word comes from French gourmet, fitted with the Dutch verb ending -en, so gourmetten literally became something one does together at the table. Its rise as a Christmas and New Year meal was helped by butchers and supermarkets selling pre-cut gourmet platters in December, turning a household appliance into a national festive habit.
Quantity
300g
cut into thin bite-size pieces
Quantity
250g
cut into thin bite-size pieces
Quantity
200g
Quantity
150g
cut into small strips
Quantity
200g
wiped clean and halved
Quantity
2
cut into small strips
Quantity
1 small
sliced into half-moons
Quantity
2
cut into wedges
Quantity
8 quail eggs or 4 chicken eggs
beaten
Quantity
150g
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
150g
Quantity
150g
Quantity
150g
warmed
Quantity
1
sliced
Quantity
as needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| beef steakcut into thin bite-size pieces | 300g |
| lamb fillet or lamb rumpcut into thin bite-size pieces | 250g |
| mini beef meatballs or tiny burgers | 200g |
| bacon or ontbijtspekcut into small strips | 150g |
| mushroomswiped clean and halved | 200g |
| bell pepperscut into small strips | 2 |
| courgettesliced into half-moons | 1 small |
| red onionscut into wedges | 2 |
| quail eggs or small chicken eggsbeaten | 8 quail eggs or 4 chicken eggs |
| grated Gouda | 150g |
| neutral oil | 3 tablespoons |
| salt and black pepper | to taste |
| paprika | 1 teaspoon |
| ground nutmeg | 1/2 teaspoon |
| garlic mayonnaise | 150g |
| cocktail sauce | 150g |
| satay saucewarmed | 150g |
| baguette or stokbroodsliced | 1 |
| herb butter | as needed |
Set the gourmetstel, the tabletop grill, in the centre of the table and give every person a small pan, a spatula, and a clean plate. Put raw meat on separate platters from the vegetables and bread. Gezellig means convivial, not careless; keep the raw and cooked sides of the meal apart.
Pat the beef and lamb dry, then toss them lightly with a little oil, salt, pepper, paprika, and nutmeg. The nutmeg is not perfume here, it's the old Dutch hand on the shoulder, the same spice that wanders through meatballs, ragout, and bitterballen. Use just enough that someone asks what it is, not enough that you must answer before they ask.
Lay the meat, bacon, mushrooms, peppers, courgette, onions, beaten eggs, and Gouda in small bowls around the grill. Keep portions modest. Gourmetten works because each pan holds a mouthful or two, never a private stewpot. If everything is cut small and evenly, nobody has to wait for one heroic piece of meat to finish its speech.
Turn the grill on and let it heat for ten minutes before the first piece of meat touches it. Brush the top and the pans with a film of oil. You want a quick sizzle, not a slow grey sadness; small meat needs confidence and heat.
Cook beef and lamb on the hot top plate in tiny portions, turning once or twice until browned outside and cooked to your liking. Use the little pans underneath for mushrooms with bacon, onion with Gouda, or a spoonful of beaten egg. The pleasure is in the round: cook, eat, talk, repeat. A feast that hurries has misunderstood itself.
Serve the cooked bites with garlic mayonnaise, cocktail sauce, warm satay sauce, sliced stokbrood, and herb butter. Don't build perfect plates. Gourmetten is a table rhythm, not a presentation: a bit of beef, a mushroom cap, bread dragged through sauce, then back to the pan.
1 serving (about 620g)
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