
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Kalamarakia Tiganita (Καλαμαράκια Τηγανητά)
Aegean island fried squid is flour, hot oil, lemon, and nerve. Fry it for a minute or two, no longer, and it stays tender under its crisp coat.
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Constantinople's meatless vine leaves, yialantzi, are rolled around herbed rice, currants, pine nuts, lemon, and olive oil, then rested until tender and bright.
Dolmadakia Yialantzi Politika are Constantinople's little vine leaves, filled with rice instead of meat. Yialantzi means liar, the dolma that pretends to be the richer one. In the Politiki kitchen that lie is not poor at all: onion cooked sweet in olive oil, rice, dill, mint, parsley, currants, pine nuts, and lemon.
The whole dish depends on the roll. Firm, not tight. Rice swells as it cooks, and if you trap it too hard inside the leaf, the center stays stubborn while the outside goes soft. Give it a little room and the filling turns tender, fragrant, and clean enough to eat at room temperature with only lemon and oil.
These belong to the fasting table, to Easter spreads before and after the great feast, and to the meze plate that waits without complaint while guests arrive late. I don't invent it. I find it, I test it, I write it down. A recipe written down is a recipe saved, and this one deserves to stay alive in a real kitchen.
Dolmadakia Yialantzi belong to the Politiki cooking of Constantinople, where the word yialantzi comes from Turkish yalanci, meaning false or lying, used for meatless dolma. The rice filling with currants, pine nuts, herbs, lemon, and olive oil reflects the Ottoman city kitchen carried into Greek homes by Constantinopolitan and Asia Minor families. Because it contains no meat, dairy, or egg, it also settled naturally into the Orthodox fasting repertoire.
Quantity
60
rinsed and drained
Quantity
220g
rinsed until the water runs almost clear
Quantity
120ml
divided
Quantity
2 large
finely chopped
Quantity
4
finely sliced
Quantity
35g
Quantity
35g
soaked 10 minutes and drained
Quantity
25g
finely chopped
Quantity
20g
finely chopped
Quantity
12g
finely chopped
Quantity
1 tsp
plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 tsp
Quantity
1/4 tsp
Quantity
2
juiced
Quantity
360ml
Quantity
1
thinly sliced, for the pot
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| preserved vine leaves (ampelofylla)rinsed and drained | 60 |
| short-grain ricerinsed until the water runs almost clear | 220g |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oildivided | 120ml |
| yellow onionsfinely chopped | 2 large |
| spring onionsfinely sliced | 4 |
| pine nuts | 35g |
| currantssoaked 10 minutes and drained | 35g |
| fresh dillfinely chopped | 25g |
| flat-leaf parsleyfinely chopped | 20g |
| fresh mint leavesfinely chopped | 12g |
| fine sea saltplus more to taste | 1 tsp |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 tsp |
| ground allspice | 1/4 tsp |
| lemonsjuiced | 2 |
| hot water | 360ml |
| lemonthinly sliced, for the pot | 1 |
Rinse the preserved vine leaves well, then taste one. If it is very salty or sharp from the jar, soak the leaves in warm water for 10 minutes and drain. Set aside any torn leaves; they will line the pot, and nothing is wasted.
Warm 60ml of the olive oil in a wide pan over medium heat. Add the yellow onions and spring onions with a pinch of salt and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until soft and sweet but not browned. Add the pine nuts and cook 2 minutes more, just until they smell warm.
Stir in the rice and let it turn glossy in the oil for 2 minutes. Add the currants, dill, parsley, mint, salt, pepper, allspice, half the lemon juice, and 120ml hot water. Cook for 5 minutes, until the rice has only begun to swell. It must stay half-cooked, because it finishes inside the leaf.
Lay one vine leaf shiny side down, stem end facing you. Pinch off the hard stem if it remains. Place 1 level teaspoon of filling near the base, fold the sides in, and roll forward into a neat little cylinder. Roll firmly, not tightly. The rice needs room to swell, and this is the one method that decides the dish: too loose and they open, too tight and the rice turns hard inside.
Line the bottom of a wide heavy pot with the torn vine leaves and a few lemon slices. Arrange the dolmadakia seam side down in tight circles, touching each other so they cannot move. Make a second layer if needed, but keep the layers even.
Pour over the remaining 60ml olive oil, the remaining lemon juice, and 240ml hot water. Set a heatproof plate directly on top of the dolmadakia to hold them down. Bring to a gentle bubble, cover, lower the heat, and simmer for 40 to 45 minutes, until the rice is tender and the leaves have softened.
Take the pot off the heat and leave it covered for 30 minutes. Then remove the plate and let the dolmadakia cool to warm room temperature in their juices. Serve with a little oil from the pot, lemon wedges, and, if you like, strained yogurt on the side, though the fasting table needs nothing more.
1 serving (about 220g)
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