
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Kalamarakia Tiganita (Καλαμαράκια Τηγανητά)
Aegean island fried squid is flour, hot oil, lemon, and nerve. Fry it for a minute or two, no longer, and it stays tender under its crisp coat.
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Cycladic kolokythokeftedes are summer courgette fritters, green with dill and mint, salty with feta, and fried until the edges crisp around a tender center.
Cycladic kolokythokeftedes are the island summer fritter: grated courgette, feta, dill, mint, a little onion, and just enough flour and egg to hold the spoonful together. They belong on a meze table beside yogurt, olives, and something cold in the glass.
The whole dish is decided before the pan sees oil. Salt the grated courgette, let it weep, then squeeze it bone-dry in a towel. Courgette carries more water than it admits. Leave that water in and the fritters loosen, spit in the pan, and turn heavy instead of crisp at the edge.
After that, be calm. Mix gently, chill the bowl if the batter feels soft, and fry small spoonfuls in shallow olive oil until deep gold. My notebook has many versions from island kitchens, but the good ones all agree on this: the herbs should taste alive, the cheese should season the batter, and the flour should disappear.
Kolokythokeftedes belong to the summer meze cooking of the Aegean islands, especially the Cyclades, where small garden courgettes are used while still tender and sweet. Courgettes reached Greek kitchens after the Columbian exchange, but the method of binding vegetables with herbs, cheese, egg, and flour fits an older Greek economy of making a small harvest feed a table. In Crete the cheese may shift toward mizithra or xinomyzithra; in many Cycladic kitchens feta, dill, and mint define the plate.
Quantity
700g
coarsely grated
Quantity
8g
for draining
Quantity
150g
crumbled
Quantity
2
finely sliced
Quantity
80g
finely grated or minced
Quantity
20g
chopped
Quantity
12g
chopped
Quantity
2
lightly beaten
Quantity
90g
plus 2 tbsp more if needed
Quantity
1 tsp
Quantity
1/2 tsp
Quantity
250ml
for shallow frying
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small firm courgettescoarsely grated | 700g |
| fine sea saltfor draining | 8g |
| fetacrumbled | 150g |
| spring onionsfinely sliced | 2 |
| small red onionfinely grated or minced | 80g |
| fresh dillchopped | 20g |
| fresh mint leaveschopped | 12g |
| large eggslightly beaten | 2 |
| plain flourplus 2 tbsp more if needed | 90g |
| baking powder | 1 tsp |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 tsp |
| extra virgin olive oilfor shallow frying | 250ml |
| lemon wedges | to serve |
| thick Greek yogurt or tzatziki (optional) | to serve |
Put the grated courgette in a colander, toss with the salt, and leave it over a bowl for 20 minutes. It will look as if nothing dramatic is happening, then the water begins to collect underneath. That water is what would break the fritters apart.
Tip the courgette into a clean kitchen towel and twist hard over the sink until no more liquid runs out. Be a little merciless. You should be left with a tight, dry handful of green shreds, not a wet mound.
In a wide bowl, combine the squeezed courgette, feta, spring onions, red onion, dill, mint, eggs, flour, baking powder, and black pepper. Fold gently until the mixture holds together when pressed on a spoon. It should be soft but not pourable.
Let the batter rest in the refrigerator for 10 minutes while you set up the pan. This gives the flour time to take in the last moisture and makes the spoonfuls easier to shape.
Pour olive oil into a wide frying pan to a depth of about 1cm and set it over medium-high heat. Drop in a tiny bit of batter; it should sizzle at once and rise with small bubbles around it. If it browns too fast, lower the heat.
Spoon heaped tablespoons of batter into the oil, flattening each one lightly. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes per side, until deep golden and crisp at the edges. Don't crowd the pan, or the oil cools and the fritters drink it.
Lift the kolokythokeftedes onto a rack or paper-lined tray and salt lightly while hot if needed. Serve warm, not scorching, with lemon wedges and thick yogurt or tzatziki. The inside should be tender, herby, and white-flecked with feta.
1 serving (about 170g)
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