
Chef Makoa
Butter Mochi (Hawaiʻi Local Mochiko Coconut Cake)
A chewy, golden Hawaiʻi Local square from mochiko, butter, and coconut milk, baked in one pan until the edges pull crisp and the middle stays tender.
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Hawaiʻi Local custard pie from the neighborhood bakery box: silky egg-and-evaporated-milk custard in a flaky crust, nutmeg freckles on top, the soft slice a grandparent kept ready for potluck and coffee.
Tūtū, our Hawaiʻi word for grandparent, knew a bakery box could carry kinship too. This custard pie belongs to Hawaiʻi, to the Local table of Oʻahu neighborhood bakeries, church potlucks, and worn Formica kitchens, not to the loʻi, the taro patch. It isn't Hāloa, our elder brother the kalo, taro, and I no pretend it is. It is the soft yellow slice in the box, egg and milk set gentle, nutmeg on top, enough for one more after dinner.
That Local table came after the canoes, but it still fed real people in real places. The deep table has kalo, ʻulu, breadfruit, ʻuala, sweet potato, fish, limu, seaweed, and the old ways our kūpuna, elders, carried. The Local bakery table has Portuguese malasada, Okinawan andagi, Chinese gau, Filipino hopia, Japanese mochi, American custard pie, and all the hands that met in plantation towns and city blocks. Across the Triangle, the cousins keep their own sweets, Sāmoa's pani popo, coconut buns, Tonga's faikakai, dumplings in coconut syrup, Tahiti's poʻe, fruit pudding, the Cook Islands' poke, another fruit pudding. Same ocean, different tables. Name them all.
The pie asks for gentleness. Warm the milk so the eggs don't seize, strain the custard so it pours like satin, then bake until the rim is set and the center still trembles. Pull it too late and it weeps. Pull it too early and it slumps. No blame the pie. You hurried the eggs. Let it cool, chill it if you're making ahead, and cut it clean for the auntie who says she only wants a small piece, then comes back for the corner of yours.
Custard pie in Hawaiʻi belongs to the post-contact Local bakery culture that grew in the plantation era: Chinese contract laborers arrived in 1852, Portuguese workers from Madeira and the Azores in 1878, Japanese workers in 1885, Okinawan workers in 1900, and Filipino workers in 1906, each community adding to the daily table. Wheat flour, dairy, refined sugar, canned milk, and nutmeg were not canoe crops; they came through mission ovens, plantation stores, port commerce, and later grocery shelves, then settled into neighborhood bakeries and potluck boxes. That line matters: this pie is Hawaiʻi Local food, not Kanaka Maoli deep food, and honoring it honestly lets the loʻi foods stay kin while the bakery sweets stay loved.
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
plus more for rolling
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
8 tablespoons
cut into small cubes
Quantity
2 tablespoons
cut into small pieces
Quantity
4 to 6 tablespoons
Quantity
3
Quantity
2
Quantity
2/3 cup
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 can (12 ounces)
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
plus more for dusting
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flourplus more for rolling | 1 1/2 cups |
| granulated sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| cold unsalted buttercut into small cubes | 8 tablespoons |
| cold vegetable shorteningcut into small pieces | 2 tablespoons |
| ice water | 4 to 6 tablespoons |
| large eggs | 3 |
| large egg yolks | 2 |
| granulated sugar | 2/3 cup |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| evaporated milk | 1 can (12 ounces) |
| whole milk | 1 cup |
| vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| ground nutmegplus more for dusting | 1/4 teaspoon |
Whisk the flour, sugar, and salt together. Cut in the cold butter and shortening until you have pea-size bits and flat flakes running through the flour, then sprinkle in 4 tablespoons ice water and fold with a fork. Add more water a teaspoon at a time only until the dough holds when squeezed. Don't knead it smooth. A bakery crust needs those little pockets.
Gather the dough into a disk, wrap it, and chill for 30 minutes. Roll it on a lightly floured counter into a 12-inch round, settle it into a 9-inch deep-dish pie pan, and crimp the edge. Set the shell in the freezer for 15 minutes so the fat firms back up before the oven gets its turn.
Heat the oven to 375F. Line the crust with parchment and fill it with pie weights or dried beans. Bake 18 minutes, lift out the parchment and weights, then bake 8 to 10 minutes more, until the bottom looks dry and pale gold. Lower the oven to 325F.
In a small saucepan, warm the evaporated milk and whole milk until tiny bubbles show around the edge. Don't boil it. You just want the milk warm enough to meet the eggs kindly, not so hot it scrambles them.
Whisk the eggs, yolks, sugar, and salt in a bowl with a gentle hand. Slowly ladle in the warm milk while whisking, a little at first, then the rest. Stir in the vanilla and nutmeg, then strain the custard through a fine-mesh strainer into a pitcher. That strainer is how you get the soft bakery smoothness, no egg threads hiding in the pie.
Set the baked shell on a rimmed sheet pan and pour in the custard. Dust the top lightly with more nutmeg. Bake at 325F for 35 to 45 minutes, until the outer two inches are set and the center still trembles when the pan is nudged. An instant-read thermometer should read 170F to 175F near the center. Pull it there. Carryover heat will finish the custard.
Cool the pie on a rack for 1 hour, then chill at least 2 hours for clean slices. Serve cold or let it sit 20 minutes at room temperature so the custard softens. Keep leftovers covered in the refrigerator and eat within 3 days.
1 serving (about 150g)
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