
Chef Lupita
Agua de Alfalfa
Ciudad de México's highland market agua fresca, fresh alfalfa blended with pineapple and lime until bright green, strained clean, and poured cold from the vitrolero.
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Hidalgo's pulque curado from the Llanos de Apan, blended with toasted oats, cinnamon, and piloncillo until creamy and cold, the fiesta drink that sits between breakfast and celebration.
Hidalgo, especially the Llanos de Apan and the edge of the Valle del Mezquital, is pulque country. Rows of maguey pulquero mark the land there, and the drink belongs to that dry highland geography before it belongs to any bar menu. This curado de avena starts with pulque blanco, fresh and slightly tangy, not a bottled sweet drink pretending to be tradition.
The defining ingredient is not chile. It is toasted avena. Not all Mexican food needs to bite you back, and anyone who throws chamoy into this has lost the thread. The oats are toasted on a comal, softened with piloncillo and canela, then blended into a creamy base that thickens the pulque without burying its maguey flavor.
I learned this rhythm in Hidalgo tinacales and old pulquerias where the best curados were made by women who could balance sour, sweet, and grain by sight. Blend the oat base first. Fold in the pulque last. Serve it cold, in barro or thick glass, with enough canela to smell before you drink. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Pulque is a pre-Hispanic fermented drink made from aguamiel, the sap collected from mature maguey pulquero, especially Agave salmiana, Agave atrovirens, and Agave mapisaga in the central highlands. In the late 19th century, Hidalgo's Llanos de Apan became one of the great pulque-producing regions because haciendas could send barrels by rail to Mexico City before the drink spoiled. Curados, pulque mixed with fruit, seeds, nuts, or grains, grew inside pulqueria culture; avena is one of the milkier, filling versions, closer to a fermented atole served cold than to a modern sweet cocktail.
Quantity
1 cup
not instant
Quantity
1 1/4 cups
Quantity
3 ounces
chopped
Quantity
1
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1 liter
chilled
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| old-fashioned rolled oats (avena en hojuelas)not instant | 1 cup |
| water | 1 1/4 cups |
| piloncillochopped | 3 ounces |
| Mexican cinnamon stick (canela) | 1 |
| kosher salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| cold whole milk | 1 cup |
| fresh natural pulque (pulque blanco)chilled | 1 liter |
| Mexican vanilla extract (optional) | 1/2 teaspoon |
| ground Mexican canela (optional) | for serving |
Heat a dry comal or heavy skillet over medium. Add the oats and stir for 4 to 5 minutes, until they smell nutty and turn pale gold at the edges. Do not brown them hard. Burned oats make the curado taste like old cereal. Reserve 1 tablespoon of toasted oats for serving.
In a small clay cazuela or saucepan, combine the water, piloncillo, cinnamon stick, and salt. Simmer gently for 5 minutes, stirring until the piloncillo dissolves. Pull it from the heat and let it cool completely. Hot syrup does not go into pulque. Pulque is alive, and if you cook it, you kill the point of the drink.
Remove the cinnamon stick from the cooled syrup. Pour the syrup over the toasted oats and let them sit for 20 minutes, until swollen and soft. This is where the body of the curado is built. Avena needs time to drink before you drink it.
Transfer the soaked oats and syrup to a blender. Add the cold whole milk and the Mexican vanilla, if using. Blend until smooth and creamy, about 45 seconds. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve if you want a pulqueria-smooth drink, pressing with a spoon. Leave it unstrained if you like the grain texture. Both ways exist. Choose and stand by it.
Pour the chilled pulque into a clay pitcher or glass jar. Add the oat base and stir gently with a wooden spoon until the drink turns ivory and thick. Do not whip it hard in the blender after the pulque goes in. The women behind the pulqueria counter know this: blend the flavor, then respect the pulque.
Chill the pitcher for 15 minutes, then serve in pulqueria glasses or small clay jarritos with a pinch of ground canela and a few reserved toasted oats on top. Keep the pitcher cold and shaded if you serve it outdoors. Drink it the same day. Pulque keeps fermenting, so do not seal it tightly in a bottle and forget about it. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
1 serving (about 260g)
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