
Chef Juliana
Barreado Paranaense
You think the sealed pot is the hard part. It isn't. The hard part is believing dinner can be this good with beef, onions, patience, and no packet pretending to help.
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You don't need a grandmother from the south to make cuca. You need a soft dough, patience for one rise, and a farofa doce thick enough to fight over.
You look at a yeasted cake and think, isso não é pra mim. I know. Yeast sounds like one of those kitchen creatures that only obeys grandmothers and women who never measure anything. Nonsense. Cozinhar não é dom, é um aprendizado. Yeast eats, rests, grows, and tells you what it's doing if you look at it.
Cuca comes from the German Kuchen brought by immigrants who settled in southern Brazil, especially in Rio Grande do Sul and Santa Catarina, during the nineteenth century. In Brazil it became its own thing: a soft yeasted base, often richer and taller than the German home cakes, covered with farofa doce and filled or topped depending on the town and the family. The debate over what belongs in a cuca, banana, grapes, doce de leite, goiabada, or only crumb, is exactly the point: it became Brazilian by being repeated at home.
Quantity
1/2 cup
warmed until just warm to the touch, about 38°C to 43°C
Quantity
2 1/4 teaspoons
Quantity
1/2 cup
divided for the dough
Quantity
3 cups, plus 2 tablespoons if needed
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2 large
room temperature
Quantity
4 tablespoons
softened
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
finely grated
Quantity
as needed
for greasing the pan
Quantity
1 cup
for the farofa
Quantity
1/2 cup
for the farofa
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 pinch
for the farofa
Quantity
6 tablespoons
cut into small cubes
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole milkwarmed until just warm to the touch, about 38°C to 43°C | 1/2 cup |
| instant dry yeast | 2 1/4 teaspoons |
| granulated sugardivided for the dough | 1/2 cup |
| all-purpose flour | 3 cups, plus 2 tablespoons if needed |
| fine salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| eggsroom temperature | 2 large |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 4 tablespoons |
| vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| lemon zest (optional)finely grated | 1/2 teaspoon |
| butter or oilfor greasing the pan | as needed |
| all-purpose flourfor the farofa | 1 cup |
| granulated sugarfor the farofa | 1/2 cup |
| ground cinnamon | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine saltfor the farofa | 1 pinch |
| cold unsalted buttercut into small cubes | 6 tablespoons |
Pour the warm milk into a large bowl and stir in the yeast with 1 tablespoon of the sugar. Wait 5 to 10 minutes, until the surface looks creamy and a little foamy. If the milk is hot, it can kill the yeast; if it's cold, the yeast works slowly and you'll think the recipe failed. Warm like a bath for a baby, not hot like coffee.
Add the remaining sugar, 3 cups flour, salt, eggs, softened butter, vanilla, and lemon zest if using. Mix with a wooden spoon or the paddle of a mixer until you have a sticky, thick dough that pulls in elastic strands, about 3 minutes by mixer or 5 minutes by hand. It should be softer than bread dough and thicker than cake batter. Don't bury it in extra flour, because that softness is what gives cuca its tender middle.
Scrape the dough into a greased bowl, cover it, and let it rise in a warm corner until puffy and almost doubled, about 45 to 60 minutes. Look at the dough, not only the clock. It should look airy and relaxed, with tiny bubbles near the edge. This rest builds flavor and lift, so rushing it gives you a dense cake pretending it had somewhere else to be.
While the dough rises, mix 1 cup flour, 1/2 cup sugar, cinnamon, and a pinch of salt in a bowl. Add the cold butter cubes and rub them in with your fingertips until you have crumbs of different sizes, some sandy, some like small peas. The cold butter keeps the farofa crumbly in the oven instead of melting into a flat sweet paste.
Grease a 23-by-33 cm baking pan, or a 9-by-13 inch pan. Scrape in the risen dough and spread it to the corners with lightly oiled fingers. Be gentle. If you press all the air out, the base loses the rise you just waited for. The dough will look thin at first; it grows again under the farofa.
Scatter the farofa over the dough in an even, generous layer, then press only a few larger crumbs lightly so they hold. Don't pack the whole top down. Loose crumbs bake crisp at the edges and tender underneath; packed crumbs turn heavy and can keep the center from baking evenly.
Cover the pan loosely and let it rise again for 25 to 35 minutes, until the dough looks puffed around the edges and the farofa has lifted slightly. Heat the oven to 180°C or 350°F while it rests. This second rise is small but important: it gives you a soft base instead of a tight one.
Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the farofa is golden in spots and a toothpick pushed into the center comes out without wet dough. Let it cool in the pan for at least 20 minutes before cutting. Hot cuca tears and smears; warm cuca cuts into squares and keeps the crumb where it belongs.
1 serving (about 80g)
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