
Chef Graziella
Arancini alla Siciliana
Golden fried rice balls from Sicily, where Arab culinary influence meets Italian home cooking. The saffron-perfumed rice conceals a heart of slow-simmered ragù and sweet peas.
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The black truffles of Norcia, pounded to a paste with nothing but olive oil and restraint, spread on warm bread. This is Umbrian luxury in its purest form.
Norcia sits in the mountains of Umbria, where the forests give up their treasures to those who know where to look. The black truffle of this region is less celebrated than its white cousin from Alba, which is a mistake. It has an earthiness, a depth, that speaks of the woods in autumn.
This is not a recipe that hides behind technique. There is no technique to speak of. You pound truffles with oil until they become paste. You toast bread. You spread one on the other. The only skill required is restraint: the courage to leave out everything that does not belong.
Americans want to add garlic. They want cream. They want to complicate what needs no complication. The truffle has traveled from the forest floor to your table. It does not need your help. It needs you to stay out of its way.
Norcia has been the center of Umbrian truffle hunting since at least the 14th century, when the town's hunters developed secret knowledge of the forests passed from father to son. The norcini, as the town's craftsmen are called, became so renowned for their skill with both truffles and pork that their name became synonymous with Italian charcuterie.
Quantity
3 ounces
Quantity
1/3 cup
finest quality, preferably Umbrian
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
12 slices
cut 1/2 inch thick
Quantity
1 small
rinsed and minced
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh black truffles | 3 ounces |
| extra virgin olive oilfinest quality, preferably Umbrian | 1/3 cup |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| rustic Italian breadcut 1/2 inch thick | 12 slices |
| anchovy fillet (optional)rinsed and minced | 1 small |
Brush the truffles gently with a soft brush to remove any soil. Do not wash them under water. Truffles absorb moisture like a sponge, and you will dilute the very flavor you paid dearly for. If there is stubborn dirt, scrape it away with a small knife. Pat dry with a clean cloth.
Chop the truffles roughly and place them in a mortar. Add a pinch of salt. If using the anchovy, add it now. Begin pounding with the pestle, working in a circular motion. Add the olive oil gradually, a tablespoon at a time, continuing to pound and work the mixture until you have a coarse paste. It should not be perfectly smooth. Some texture is correct.
Toast the bread slices under a broiler or on a grill until golden on both sides. Watch them carefully. They should be crisp at the edges but still have give at the center. The bread must be warm when you spread the paste. Cold bread is a waste of good truffle.
Spread the truffle paste generously on each warm crostino. Do not be stingy. You have already spent the money on the truffles. Arrange on a board or platter and serve immediately. These wait for no one. The warmth of the bread releases the truffle's perfume. Within minutes, that moment passes.
1 serving (about 85g)
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