
Chef Graziella
Baci di Dama
Piedmont's famous hazelnut cookies, each one small as a walnut and twice as fragile. Two tender domes joined by a whisper of dark chocolate, named for how they resemble lips meeting in a kiss.
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The jam tart of Italian home kitchens, where tender, sandy pasta frolla cradles good preserves under a woven lattice. Found in every pasticceria and on every grandmother's table.
Every Italian child knows the crostata. It sits on the kitchen counter under a cloth, waiting for merenda. It travels to the beach wrapped in paper. It appears at the end of Sunday lunch when no one has room for anything, yet everyone finds room for a small slice. This is not a fancy dessert. It is home.
The crust is pasta frolla, the universal sweet dough of Italian baking. Tender, sandy, crumbling at the touch of a fork. It contains enough butter to be rich but not so much that it becomes greasy. The lemon zest is essential. Without it, the dough tastes flat.
The filling is jam. Simply jam. Good jam made from good fruit, whether you buy it from a trusted source or put it up yourself in summer. Apricot is classic. Sour cherry is beloved in the north. Fig belongs to the south. Choose what pleases you, but choose quality. A crostata cannot hide inferior preserves.
The lattice top is tradition, not ornament. It allows steam to escape so the jam does not make the bottom crust soggy. It creates those jeweled windows where the jam bubbles and darkens. A solid top is possible but not the same.
The crostata descends from medieval open-faced tarts that spread across Europe from ancient Rome, where sweet and savory fillings baked in pastry crusts were common. By the Renaissance, jam tarts with lattice tops appeared in Italian household accounts and convent recipes. The form has remained virtually unchanged for five centuries, requiring no improvement because none was needed.
Quantity
300g (2 1/3 cups)
Quantity
150g (2/3 cup)
cut into small cubes
Quantity
120g (1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons)
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 whole
Quantity
1
finely grated zest only
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
350g (1 generous cup)
Quantity
1
beaten with 1 tablespoon milk for egg wash
Quantity
for dusting
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| tipo 00 flour or all-purpose flour | 300g (2 1/3 cups) |
| cold unsalted buttercut into small cubes | 150g (2/3 cup) |
| granulated sugar | 120g (1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons) |
| large egg yolks | 2 |
| large egg | 1 whole |
| lemonfinely grated zest only | 1 |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| good-quality jam | 350g (1 generous cup) |
| egg yolkbeaten with 1 tablespoon milk for egg wash | 1 |
| powdered sugar (optional) | for dusting |
Place the flour in a mound on a cool work surface, preferably marble. Make a well in the center. Add the sugar, salt, lemon zest, egg yolks, and whole egg to the well. Using a fork, beat the eggs gently, then begin incorporating flour from the inner walls of the well. When the mixture becomes too thick to stir, scatter the cold butter cubes over the top.
Using your fingertips or a pastry scraper, work the butter into the flour and egg mixture. Rub the butter between your fingers, lifting and letting it fall, until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Gather the dough together quickly, pressing it into a rough mass. Knead it two or three times only, just until it holds together. The dough should look shaggy, not smooth. Overworking develops gluten and makes the crust tough.
Divide the dough into two pieces, one slightly larger than the other. The larger piece will line the pan; the smaller will form the lattice. Flatten each into a disc, wrap tightly in plastic, and refrigerate for at least one hour. The dough must be thoroughly cold before rolling. This is not optional.
Remove the larger disc from the refrigerator. On a lightly floured surface, roll it into a circle about 12 inches in diameter and 1/8 inch thick. Work from the center outward, rotating the dough a quarter turn after each roll. Transfer the dough to a 9-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Press gently into the corners and up the sides. Trim the excess, leaving a small overhang. Prick the bottom all over with a fork. Return to the refrigerator while you prepare the lattice.
Roll the smaller disc into a rectangle about 10 inches long and 1/8 inch thick. Using a sharp knife or fluted pastry wheel, cut strips approximately 3/4 inch wide. You will need 10 to 12 strips. If the dough becomes too soft to handle, slide it onto a baking sheet and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
Remove the lined tart pan from the refrigerator. Spread the jam evenly over the bottom in a single layer. The jam should be about 1/4 inch thick, generous but not overflowing. Leave a narrow border around the edge.
Lay half the strips across the jam in parallel lines, spacing them about 3/4 inch apart. Fold back alternate strips halfway. Lay a cross strip perpendicular to the first set. Unfold the folded strips over it. Fold back the other set of strips and lay another cross strip. Continue this weaving pattern until the lattice is complete. Press the ends of the strips into the rim of the crust and trim any excess. The lattice need not be perfect. A handmade appearance is honest.
Brush the lattice strips and the rim of the crust with the egg wash. Be thorough but light. The wash creates the golden color and slight sheen of a properly baked crostata. Refrigerate the assembled tart for 20 minutes before baking. This firms the dough and prevents shrinking.
Heat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Place the tart on a baking sheet and bake in the center of the oven until the crust is deep golden and the jam bubbles thickly in the spaces between the lattice, 35 to 40 minutes. The lattice strips should be the color of dark honey. If the edges brown too quickly, cover them loosely with foil.
Remove the tart from the oven and let it cool completely in the pan on a wire rack. The jam will be molten when hot and will thicken as it cools. Do not attempt to slice a warm crostata. It will weep. When fully cool, remove the outer ring of the pan and dust lightly with powdered sugar if desired. This is traditional but not required.
1 serving (about 120g)
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