Cozze Gratinate alla Pugliese

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large pot with tight-fitting lid for steaming
• •Stiff brush for scrubbing mussels
• •Rimmed baking sheet
• •Small spoon for topping

Instructions

1. 1

   Clean the mussels

   Examine each mussel. Discard any with cracked shells or shells that remain open when tapped sharply. The mussel must be alive. Pull away the beard, that fibrous tuft protruding from the shell. Scrub each shell under cold running water. A small stiff brush is useful. Work over a bowl to catch any grit.

   The beard is how the mussel anchors itself to rocks and ropes. Grip it firmly and pull toward the hinge of the shell, not the opening. Removing it the wrong direction can tear the mussel.
2. 2

   Steam the mussels open

   Put the wine in a large pot and bring to a boil. Add the mussels, cover tightly, and cook over high heat for 3 to 4 minutes, shaking the pot once or twice. The mussels will open. Remove them as they open to avoid overcooking. Discard any that refuse to open after 5 minutes. These were dead before cooking and are not safe to eat.

3. 3

   Prepare the half shells

   When cool enough to handle, remove and discard the top shell from each mussel, leaving the meat attached to the bottom shell. Arrange the mussels in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. They should sit level, cradled by the curve of their shells. If they tip, nestle them against their neighbors for support.

4. 4

   Make the breadcrumb topping

   In a bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, pecorino, parsley, and garlic. Add the olive oil gradually, mixing with your fingers until the crumbs are evenly moistened and hold together when pressed. The mixture should be sandy, not wet. Season with pepper. Salt is unnecessary; the cheese and mussel provide enough.

   The garlic here is minced very fine, not put through a press. You want its flavor distributed throughout the crumb, present but not aggressive. The mussel is the point.
5. 5

   Top the mussels

   Spoon a small mound of the breadcrumb mixture onto each mussel, pressing gently so it adheres. The topping should cover the meat generously but not spill over the shell edges. Do not pack it too tightly or it will not crisp properly.

6. 6

   Bake until golden

   Position a rack in the upper third of your oven and heat to 450°F. Drizzle the topped mussels lightly with additional olive oil. Bake until the crumbs are deep golden and crisp, 10 to 12 minutes. Watch carefully in the final minutes. The crumbs can go from golden to burnt quickly.

   If the crumbs are golden but you want more color, slide the tray under the broiler for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Do not walk away. The broiler forgives nothing.
7. 7

   Serve immediately

   Transfer the mussels to a warm platter or serve directly from the baking sheet, which has a certain rustic honesty. Arrange lemon wedges alongside. The mussels must be eaten hot, while the crumb is still crackling. A squeeze of lemon is traditional but not mandatory. Let each person decide.

Chef Tips

• •Buy mussels the day you cook them, or at most the day before. Store them in a bowl in the refrigerator, covered with a damp towel. Never submerge them in fresh water or they will die.
• •Cultivated mussels from rope farms are cleaner and more consistent than wild mussels. They require less scrubbing and have fewer barnacles. Taranto's mussels are farmed this way.
• •If you cannot find Pecorino Romano, Parmigiano-Reggiano works, though the flavor will be sweeter and less sharp. Some Pugliese cooks use local pecorino, which is milder than the Roman variety.
• •The breadcrumbs must be fine and completely dry. Soft fresh breadcrumbs will steam rather than crisp. Make your own from stale bread ground in a food processor if commercial crumbs seem stale or flavorless.

Advance Preparation

• •The breadcrumb mixture can be made several hours ahead and kept covered at room temperature.
• •The mussels can be steamed, shelled, and arranged on the baking sheet up to 2 hours ahead. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Add the topping just before baking.
• •Do not bake ahead. The dish cannot be reheated successfully. The crumbs soften and the mussels toughen.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 165g)