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Cocido Lebaniego

Cocido Lebaniego

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Cocido Lebaniego is Liébana's mountain pot from Cantabria: small chickpeas, pork from the larder, cabbage, potato, and a fried bread-and-egg relleno. Hold it at a tremble.

Soups & Stews
Spanish
Comfort Food
One Pot
Special Occasion
35 min
Active Time
3 hr cook3 hr 35 min total
Yield6 servings

Cocido Lebaniego is Liébana's cocido, from the Cantabrian mountains around Potes, and its small chickpeas are what make it itself. This is not cocido montañés, its neighbour with white beans and berza. Here you have garbanzos de Potes if you can get them, pork from the cured larder, cabbage, potato, and the fried bread-and-egg relleno that drinks the broth at the end.

The rule that decides it is simple: chickpeas go into hot broth, then stay at the barest tremble. Beans can start cold; garbanzos are more stubborn. Boil them hard and the skins split before the middle turns creamy. Chill them with cold top-up water and they sulk, yes, chickpeas have that much pride. Keep a kettle ready and add only hot water if the pot drops.

If you're far from Liébana, use a small dried chickpea like Pedrosillano, or the freshest dried chickpeas you can buy from a shop that sells through them. The flavour will be a little less nutty than garbanzo de Potes, but the dish still stands if the chickpeas are soaked, the salt is held back, and the pot is left alone. No hace falta haber pisado España.

The relleno is not decoration. Bread, egg, garlic, parsley, and a little chorizo are fried first so they hold together, then they soften in the cocido like a second spoonful of the broth. In my Margin for this one I wrote only: hot water, low fire, salt at the end. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.

Cocido lebaniego belongs to Liébana, the Cantabrian comarca around Potes, where a sheltered mountain valley made small chickpeas part of the local larder. Its nearest neighbour, cocido montañés, is also Cantabrian but not the same pot: montañés is built on white beans and berza, while lebaniego is marked by garbanzos, potatoes, pork from the matanza, and the fried bread-and-egg relleno. The broth is often served first as sopa, then the chickpeas, greens, meats, and relleno follow as the strong second vuelco.

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Ingredients

small dried chickpeas, preferably garbanzo de Liébana or garbanzo de Potes

Quantity

500g

soaked overnight

fine sea salt

Quantity

15g, plus more to taste

cured pork shoulder or lacón

Quantity

250g

soaked if salty

salted pork rib

Quantity

250g

soaked if salty

tocino or unsmoked slab bacon

Quantity

150g

in one piece

ham bone or pork spine bone

Quantity

1

rinsed

beef shin

Quantity

250g

in one piece

Spanish cooking chorizos

Quantity

2, about 220g total

40g finely chopped for the relleno, the rest left whole

firm Spanish morcilla for stewing

Quantity

1, about 150g

berza, Savoy cabbage, or green cabbage

Quantity

500g

thick ribs removed, leaves chopped

potatoes

Quantity

500g

peeled and cut into large chunks

water for the pot

Quantity

3 litres, plus more hot water as needed

day-old rustic bread

Quantity

120g

crumbed

large eggs

Quantity

2

garlic

Quantity

1 clove

finely minced

flat-leaf parsley

Quantity

2 tablespoons

chopped

hot cocido broth for the relleno

Quantity

2 to 4 tablespoons

olive oil for frying the relleno

Quantity

60ml

fine fideo noodles or angel-hair pasta (optional)

Quantity

80g

for the soup course

Equipment Needed

  • 6 to 7 litre heavy olla or Dutch oven
  • Skimming spoon
  • Small frying pan
  • Slotted spoon
  • Optional chickpea net or muslin bag

Instructions

  1. 1

    Soak the chickpeas

    The night before, put the chickpeas in a large bowl with plenty of warm water and the 15g salt. Soak them 12 hours. If the cured pork shoulder or ribs taste very salty, soak them separately in cold water for 4 to 8 hours, changing the water once. Drain the chickpeas and rinse the meats before cooking.

    Old chickpeas stay chalky no matter how patient you are. Buy dried chickpeas from a shop with good turnover. Pésalo, no lo adivines.
  2. 2

    Build the broth

    Put the cured pork shoulder, pork rib, tocino, ham bone, and beef shin in a 6 to 7 litre heavy pot with 3 litres cold water. Bring it slowly to a boil and skim until the surface looks clean. Do not salt now; the cured pork will speak first. Once the broth is boiling gently and clean, you are ready for the chickpeas.

  3. 3

    Cook the garbanzos

    Add the drained chickpeas to the hot broth, then add the whole pieces of chorizo. Lower the heat until the pot barely trembles and cook, uncovered or partly covered, for 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours 15 minutes, until the chickpeas are almost creamy but still hold their shape. Top up only with hot water if the level drops below the chickpeas. Cold water tightens them, and that is not a shortcut worth taking.

    A chickpea net or muslin bag makes lifting them easier, but it is not required. What matters is the low tremble.
  4. 4

    Fry the relleno

    While the chickpeas cook, make the relleno. Mix the bread crumbs, eggs, minced garlic, parsley, the 40g chopped chorizo, and a small pinch of salt. Add 2 to 4 tablespoons of hot broth, just enough to make a soft spoonable paste. Heat the olive oil in a small frying pan and fry oval spoonfuls until browned on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. They must set in the pan first, or they fall apart in the pot.

  5. 5

    Add greens and potato

    When the chickpeas are nearly tender, nestle the potatoes and cabbage into the pot. Keep the same low tremble and cook 25 to 30 minutes, until the potato breaks gently at the edge of a spoon. Add the morcilla and the fried rellenos for the last 12 minutes, turning the rellenos once with care. If the chickpeas still have a chalky centre, cook longer before you salt.

  6. 6

    Rest and serve

    Lift the meats to a board and let the pot rest 10 minutes. Slice the chorizo, morcilla, tocino, pork, and beef into generous pieces. Taste the broth and salt only now. If serving the sopa first, ladle about 1 litre broth into a small pan, cook the fideos in it for 5 minutes, and serve that before the chickpeas. Then bring the garbanzos, cabbage, potato, meats, and relleno to the table, making sure every bowl gets a piece of relleno.

Chef Tips

  • The right chickpea matters. Garbanzo de Liébana or garbanzo de Potes is small, fine-skinned, and nutty. Far from Cantabria, use Pedrosillano or another small dried chickpea. Large supermarket chickpeas work, but they cook a little slower and the skin is more noticeable.
  • Canned chickpeas will not give the broth the same body. If you must use them, cook the meats first until the broth is strong, then add drained canned chickpeas for the final 20 minutes with the cabbage and potato. It will be lighter. That is the truth of it.
  • Use Spanish cooking chorizo, not fresh Mexican chorizo. They are different sausages and the pot will taste wrong. For the morcilla, choose a firm one made for stewing; a soft black pudding is a last resort and should go in only at the very end.
  • Berza is the green this pot wants. Savoy cabbage, green cabbage, or collards with the thick stems removed are the honest substitutes. Kale tastes sharper and cooks faster, so add it in the last 15 minutes if that is what you have.
  • This is cocina de cuchara, spoon food, and it is better after a rest. Leftovers keep 3 days in the refrigerator. Reheat gently with a splash of water and keep the morcilla and relleno near the top so they do not break.

Advance Preparation

  • Soak the chickpeas 12 hours ahead in warm salted water so they cook evenly and turn creamy before the skins split.
  • Soak very salty cured pork shoulder or ribs 4 to 8 hours ahead in cold water, changing the water once.
  • The cocido can be cooked a day ahead through the chickpeas and meats. Add the cabbage, potatoes, morcilla, and rellenos when reheating so they keep their shape.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 830g)

Calories
1220 calories
Total Fat
64 g
Saturated Fat
20 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
40 g
Cholesterol
205 mg
Sodium
3350 mg
Total Carbohydrates
94 g
Dietary Fiber
20 g
Sugars
14 g
Protein
67 g

Note: Chef personas and recipes are created with AI assistance. Cook with care: follow safe food-handling practices, check doneness with a thermometer when needed, and adapt for allergies and your kitchen.

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