
Chef Isabel
Cocido Aragonés con Cardo
Cocido Aragonés is Aragón's chickpea stew, marked by cardo from the Ebro garden and a bread-and-meat pelota. Keep the pot gentle and the garbanzos stay whole.
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Cocido Castellano is the chickpea stew of the Castilian meseta: clear broth first, garbanzos and cabbage next, meats and fried relleno last.
Cocido Castellano belongs to Castilla, the high meseta where a pot like this is not decoration, it's lunch that carries the whole table. It is kin to Madrid's cocido, yes, but this one keeps its Castilian name with the relleno, a fried cake of egg, bread, garlic, and parsley that finishes in the broth and drinks it in. The chickpeas matter most. In Segovia they praise the garbanzo de Valseca for good reason: it cooks creamy without losing its skin.
The method that decides the dish is the simmer. Start soaked chickpeas with the meats in cold water and let the pot come up slowly, then hold it at a quiet tremble. Not a boil. A hard boil clouds the broth and batters the chickpeas until the skins slip. Low and patient gives you clear caldo, tender garbanzos, and meat that yields without turning stringy. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
If you're far from Castilla, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use good dried chickpeas from a shop with turnover, small if you can find them, and a Spanish-style cured chorizo rather than a fresh sausage. If Valseca chickpeas are out of reach, Pedrosillano or any small dried garbanzo works, though it will be a little less buttery. The Margin in my notebook for this one says only: "caldo claro." Clear broth. That is where your attention goes.
Cocido Castellano comes from the central Castilian meseta, where chickpeas, preserved pork, beef, and winter vegetables made a complete meal from one pot. Segovia is especially tied to garbanzos de Valseca, a local chickpea valued for its fine skin and creamy center. Like other cocidos of the interior, it is served in vuelcos, separate turns at the table: broth, chickpeas with vegetables, then the meats and the relleno.
Quantity
500g
soaked overnight
Quantity
350g
Quantity
250g
bone-in
Quantity
200g
in one piece
Quantity
1 bone or 150g
Quantity
1 (about 150g)
Quantity
1 (about 150g)
Quantity
1 large
cleaned and halved
Quantity
2
peeled
Quantity
2 medium
peeled and left whole
Quantity
500g
cut into wedges
Quantity
100g
Quantity
2
Quantity
60g
Quantity
2 cloves
minced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried chickpeas, preferably garbanzos de Valseca or small dried garbanzossoaked overnight | 500g |
| beef shank or morcillo | 350g |
| hen or chicken thighbone-in | 250g |
| pork belly or tocinoin one piece | 200g |
| ham bone or cured ham end | 1 bone or 150g |
| Spanish cured chorizo | 1 (about 150g) |
| morcilla de cebolla or morcilla castellana | 1 (about 150g) |
| leekcleaned and halved | 1 large |
| carrotspeeled | 2 |
| potatoespeeled and left whole | 2 medium |
| green cabbagecut into wedges | 500g |
| fine soup noodles, fideos | 100g |
| large eggs | 2 |
| day-old bread crumbs | 60g |
| garlicminced | 2 cloves |
| parsleychopped | 2 tablespoons |
| olive oil, for frying the relleno | 2 tablespoons |
| salt | to taste |
Soak the chickpeas overnight in plenty of cold water. Drain them, put them in a large heavy pot with the beef, hen or chicken, pork belly, ham bone, leek, and carrots, and cover with fresh cold water by 5cm. Bring it up slowly over medium heat and skim the grey foam as it rises; this is the first small kindness you do for a clear broth.
Once the pot is clean and barely bubbling, lower the heat until the surface trembles quietly. Cook for about 2 hours, partly covered, adding hot water only if the chickpeas stop being covered. Do not let it boil hard. That rough boil is what clouds the caldo and knocks the skins from the garbanzos.
Add the chorizo, morcilla, potatoes, and cabbage wedges. Salt lightly now, because the cured meats have already given plenty. Continue at the same low tremble for 45 to 60 minutes, until the chickpeas are creamy all the way through, the potatoes are tender, and the cabbage has softened without collapsing.
Beat the eggs with the bread crumbs, garlic, parsley, and a pinch of salt until you have a thick spoonable mixture. Heat the olive oil in a small frying pan and fry the mixture as one thick oval cake, or two smaller ones, until golden on both sides. Slide the relleno into the cocido for the last 15 minutes so it swells with broth. This is the Castilian bit people miss when they make only a plain boiled dinner.
Lift out the meats, sausages, potatoes, cabbage, carrots, and relleno to a warm platter. Strain enough broth into a separate saucepan for the first course, bring it to a gentle boil, and cook the fideos in it until tender, usually 4 to 6 minutes. Taste for salt at the end, not before.
Serve the cocido in vuelcos, the old turns: first the noodle soup, then the chickpeas with cabbage, carrot, and potato, then the meats sliced with the chorizo, morcilla, and relleno. Put a little broth over the chickpeas so they shine. This is cocina de cuchara, spoon food, and it wants bread on the table.
1 serving (about 800g)
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