
Chef Takumi
Amerikan Doggu (アメリカンドッグ, corn dog)
A sausage on a stick, sweet batter, clean hot oil, and no cornmeal. Amerikan doggu is festival food made plain, with the batter thick enough to cling.
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A Sapporo bakery roll with a plain secret: good chikuwa, tuna mayo that isn't wet, and soft bread wrapped loosely enough to rise around it.
Chikuwa pan sounds like a joke until you eat one. A grilled fish-cake tube filled with tuna mayo, wrapped in soft bread, baked until the top shines. It is not elegant in the quiet old way, but it is very much the way we eat now: bakery food, train food, picnic food, comfort with its sleeves rolled up.
The first secret is not the bread. It's the chikuwa. Choose one that smells clean and faintly sweet, with a springy bite and no stale fishiness. Sourcing first, always. The filling is simple tuna mayo, but drain the tuna well and keep the mayonnaise measured. Too wet, and the bread turns heavy at the center. Just moist, and the roll stays light while the fish cake keeps its chew.
Wrap the dough loosely. That is the detail that decides it. Bread needs room to swell, and chikuwa needs to stay visible enough that the roll tells the truth about itself. Nothing hidden under a heavy sauce, no grand performance. This is Hokkaido bakery honmono made reachable: soft, savory, a little odd, and much more sensible than it first appears.
Chikuwa pan is closely associated with Donguri, a Sapporo bakery that introduced the tuna-mayo stuffed version in 1983. It became one of the city's best-known bakery items, often described as a local answer to the savory sausage roll, but built around chikuwa, a tube-shaped fish cake long familiar in Japanese everyday cooking. Its popularity belongs to modern Hokkaido food culture, where bakery breads and Japanese fillings meet without pretending to be older than they are.
Quantity
240g
Quantity
20g
Quantity
4g
Quantity
4g
Quantity
150ml
lukewarm
Quantity
1
beaten and divided
Quantity
25g
softened
Quantity
8
Quantity
1 can (about 70g drained)
drained well
Quantity
3 tablespoons, plus more for topping
Quantity
1 tablespoon
finely minced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 pinch
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bread flour | 240g |
| sugar | 20g |
| fine sea salt | 4g |
| instant yeast | 4g |
| whole milklukewarm | 150ml |
| large eggbeaten and divided | 1 |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 25g |
| chikuwa fish cakes | 8 |
| canned tunadrained well | 1 can (about 70g drained) |
| Japanese mayonnaise | 3 tablespoons, plus more for topping |
| onionfinely minced | 1 tablespoon |
| soy sauce | 1 teaspoon |
| black pepper | 1 pinch |
| parsley or aonori (optional)chopped | 1 tablespoon |
Mix the flour, sugar, salt, and yeast in a bowl. Add the lukewarm milk and about half the beaten egg, saving the rest for brushing. Stir until a rough dough forms, then knead until smooth. Add the butter last and knead it in fully. Butter goes in after the flour has begun to strengthen, because fat softens the crumb but can slow the dough from coming together if it meets the flour too early.
Cover the dough and let it rise in a warm place until doubled, about 60 to 75 minutes. It should look swollen and feel light when pressed. Don't chase the clock too closely. Bread listens to the room more than to the recipe, a small inconvenience we forgive because the result is softer.
Drain the tuna very well, then mix it with the mayonnaise, minced onion, soy sauce, and black pepper. The filling should be moist but not wet. If it's loose, the bread around it bakes heavy and the chikuwa slides about instead of sitting neatly in its coat.
Cut each chikuwa lengthwise just enough to open the tube, without splitting it into two pieces. Spoon or pipe the tuna mayo into the hollow center. Chikuwa is springy, so don't overfill it. A modest line of filling gives you a tidy bite, with fish cake, bread, and tuna all arriving together.
Divide the risen dough into 8 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a rope about 30cm long, then wrap it around one filled chikuwa in a loose spiral, leaving a little of the fish cake visible at the ends. Keep the wrapping relaxed. If the dough is pulled tight, it contracts as it proofs and squeezes the filling out.
Set the rolls on a lined baking sheet, cover lightly, and let them rise until puffy, 30 to 40 minutes. They don't need to double. You want the dough soft and buoyant, but still holding the shape of the chikuwa underneath.
Heat the oven to 190C. Brush the rolls with the reserved beaten egg, pipe a thin line of mayonnaise over each, and scatter with parsley or aonori if using. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until the bread is golden and the mayonnaise on top has taken on a glossy, lightly browned edge. Let them rest five minutes before eating, because the filling settles and the bread finishes softening as it cools slightly.
1 serving (about 100g)
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