Ebi Katsu Sando (エビカツサンド, shrimp cutlet sandwich)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy pot or deep frying pan with a fry thermometer
• •Saibashi (long frying chopsticks), or tongs
• •Wire rack set over a tray
• •Three shallow breading trays or low bowls

Instructions

1. 1

   Dry and chop

   Pat the shrimp very dry and check it honestly before you begin. It should smell clean and faintly sweet, never sharp or ammonia-like. Mince half the shrimp with a knife until sticky, then chop the other half into small, pea-sized pieces. The minced shrimp binds the cutlet without making it heavy, and the larger pieces give you the sweet bite that tells you this is shrimp, not filler.

2. 2

   Bind the shrimp

   Put the minced and chopped shrimp in a chilled bowl with 1/4 teaspoon salt, the sake if using, katakuriko, 1 tablespoon mayonnaise, egg white, and white pepper. Stir firmly in one direction until the mixture turns tacky and holds together. Keep it cold. Warm shrimp turns slack, and a slack cutlet spreads in the oil before the crust has time to set.

   The first secret is texture: half paste, half pieces. Grind all of it smooth and the cutlet becomes bouncy. Leave all of it chunky and it falls apart.
3. 3

   Mix the tartar

   Stir together the hard-boiled eggs, 1/3 cup mayonnaise, onion, rakkyō or pickle, rice vinegar, karashi if using, and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Rinsing and squeezing the onion matters because raw onion water makes tartar harsh and loose. You want a clean, creamy sauce that seasons the shrimp, not one that soaks the bread.

4. 4

   Crisp the cabbage

   Shred the cabbage as finely as you can, rinse it briefly in cold water, then dry it thoroughly in a spinner or towel. The cabbage is doing quiet work here: it cools the fry, catches a little tartar, and keeps the sandwich from feeling heavy. Wet cabbage ruins the crumb of the shokupan, so be stricter with drying than seems reasonable.

5. 5

   Bread the patties

   Divide the shrimp mixture into 4 flat patties, each a little smaller than a slice of bread. Keep them about 1.5cm thick so the centers cook through before the panko gets too dark. Dust each patty in flour, dip in beaten egg, then coat with panko, pressing gently so the crumbs cling without compacting. Let them rest on a tray for 5 minutes while the oil heats.

6. 6

   Fry cleanly

   Heat 3cm of oil to 170 C (340 F). Fry 2 cutlets at a time, turning once, until the panko is deep golden and the center is fully opaque, about 3 to 4 minutes. Drain on a wire rack, not paper towels, so the underside stays crisp. If the oil is too hot, the crust races ahead while the center lags. Too cool, and the panko drinks oil.

7. 7

   Build the sando

   Leave the shokupan untoasted. Soft bread is part of the dish, not a missed step. Spread a very thin layer of butter on the bread if you are packing the sandwiches, then add tartar, a small bed of dry cabbage, one shrimp cutlet, and a little more tartar. Don't drown it. Honmono here is sweet shrimp, crisp panko, and cool cabbage, with nothing hidden under sauce.

8. 8

   Press and cut

   Top with the second slice of bread, cover with parchment, and set a light board or plate over the sandwiches for 2 minutes. This settles the layers so the cut is clean, but a heavy press will crush the panko you just protected. Trim the crusts if you want the kissaten look, then cut each sandwich in half or thirds with a sharp knife wiped between cuts.

Chef Tips

• •Buy shrimp by smell and texture, not by romance. Firm, translucent shrimp that smell clean will make a good sando. Tired shrimp with a sharp iodine or ammonia smell should be cooked another way, or not bought at all. Nothing hidden.
• •Good frozen shrimp can be better than tired fresh shrimp. Thaw it slowly in the refrigerator, then pat it dry until the towels come away almost clean. Water is the enemy of both binding and frying.
• •Use shokupan if you can. Its fine, soft crumb grips the cutlet without fighting it. A soft square white sandwich loaf is the sensible stand-in, but crusty bread changes the dish.
• •Fresh panko gives the lightest crust. If your panko is very dry, mist it lightly with water and toss it before breading. You want flakes that cling and fry into ridges, not dust.

Advance Preparation

• •The tartar can be made 1 day ahead and kept refrigerated. Stir it before using, because the egg and onion settle.
• •The shrimp mixture can be shaped into patties up to 4 hours ahead. Keep it covered and cold, then bread just before frying so the panko stays light.
• •The cabbage can be shredded up to 4 hours ahead and held in cold water. Dry it thoroughly before building the sandwiches.
• •For a picnic, cool the fried cutlets completely on a rack before assembling, use the optional butter as a bread barrier, keep the sandwiches chilled, and eat within 2 hours.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 360g)